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Author Topic: Fixen the brigs  (Read 2959 times)
Bob
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« Reply #90 on: February 02, 2012, 01:15:02 pm »

hehehe I hear ya !
 but its showing signs of "SPRING TIME" over here !
no kidding ! some of the menzinetta bushes have flowers on them !  its truly "Spring" though when the
"Buck-Brush" comes into flower !  and thats not too far off from the looks of things !
Hang in there !
...
Bob.......

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
crb
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« Reply #91 on: February 04, 2012, 09:08:44 am »

Was actually nice outside yesterday.  First time it was out of the 40's in months.
Drilled holes in the mounting plate.  Have to weld another plate on for pulley
location.  Kind of hit and miss, for the belt length.

crb
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Bob
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« Reply #92 on: February 04, 2012, 04:44:07 pm »

have you came up with a plan for that thing and all that ?
how are you going to get reverse on that beast ?
....
I switched the Vaporizer to the other engine and got it to work earlier... so I gott'a get back out there and get some gas-useage data from the little 3.5hp B&S form the stock setup !
...
Bob.....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
crb
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« Reply #93 on: February 05, 2012, 06:50:21 am »

Hard to explain, I'll try........
Chain drive from motor to input shaft.
Chain drive from input shaft to counter shaft,  Counter shaft will have gear mounted to it.
Chain drive from counter shaft to output shaft.  Output shaft is split with splines, and a sliding coupling
to mate the two shaft halves.  Sliding coupling will have a gear attached.  Thus mating with the
counter shaft for reverse.
I'll try for a picture, that'll be a few weeks down the road.  As long as it's nice out.

crb
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Bob
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« Reply #94 on: February 05, 2012, 08:10:27 am »

oh ok so a coupler that slides on the shaft... like a transmition has... and take it with chains from there...
 so you will be changing directions with it not enguaged (obviously) and slide the coupling over to drive it in reverse...
... I think I remember seeing something like that before... a fella made a home made cat for heavy garden work and I was looking at his gearing  he had a sliding couplier in the center enguaged the track on the right or the track on the left or ALL of it at once... a single lever selected the track to power when the stick/lever was in the center they both turned...  not easy on parts he said as he broke the coupliers quite a few times already... but he pulled a big 8 ton truck out of a pond with it
so it was very powerful ! had a 4 cyl inline and 2 transmissions in it  lol and I think 2 rear ends
it had a radiator on it bigger than most 18 wheelers do !  I said "Man that's a big radiator! looks like one off a Peterbuilt !" he said "Cummings!"...he said "it Used to over heat...it don't now though!"  LOL.... that's what I like to see I said ....OVER KILL !  he chuckled!
...
When ever I see something like that I gott'a stop and have a Look-see at it its always educational
every once in a while I get ran off at gun point but not too often !  HAHAHAHA!
...

soon as you can.... I'd love to see a picture of that thing!

Bob...
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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« Reply #95 on: February 06, 2012, 12:26:39 am »

CRB !
 I got to thinking about a reverse gear for a small paddle boat... and came up with a real easy reverse for the rototiller !
 here's a drawing...
...
the Red things are pillow bearings for the Jack shaft. the purple is just a pivot... for the whole bracket to pivot on... so it will raise the pulley up or down onto the belt on the bottom ... the belt only contacts for about 1/4 of the pulley which isn't very good, but it is geared down which should make up for it.
 the yellow pulley is on bearings and is an idlier pulley directly in line with the drive pulley on the rototiller... the 2nd shorter belt is kept tight because the pivot point is placed on the center of the rototiller drive pulley....other wise the pillow bearings can have slots in the bolt holes to adjust belt tension on the final drive...
 I left out a handle for clarity, but with a long handle and lock system you could push the lever  to raise the jackshaft into the primary belt turning it in one direction, or lower the jackshaft to turn it in the oppisit direction...
and sense it is on v belts it would be easy on the operator and enguage slowly... not all at once!
... might not be your cup of tea but its another option !  <GRIN>
...
Bob....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
crb
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« Reply #96 on: February 06, 2012, 09:13:27 am »

Pulley on output shaft just like orginal, and engagment clutch like OE.
It will also have a centrifugal clutch on engine.

Drilled holes for shaft alignment (gears, don't want to mesh to tight).
that took a while to do (had to make bushing for duplicating punch)

Had to watch football game.

crb
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crb
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« Reply #97 on: February 15, 2012, 07:30:40 am »

Got the end plates and side angle iron welded up.
Doesn't look to bad!!!  Trying to get the parts to fit in the case is
proving to be a bit of a test though.  hahaha    had to order another
sprocket for one of the shafts. (clearance).

Didn't realize Fastenal carries sprockets.  Don't have to pay shipping
with them.. and there local..

crb
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Bob
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« Reply #98 on: February 15, 2012, 07:59:31 am »

Kool ! if you change your sprocket size you'll probably have to take a link or 2  out of the chain
... make sure you have a chain repair kit on hand when ya tackel that...makes it really easy to just grab the one ya want .... chains are identified by a stamp on every link like D-405 or such like
make sure your new links fit that chain! ....
 or you could do what I've done before and remove a link by using a nail-set punch and an anvil or large vice barely open enough to allow the pin to pass between the jaws but support the rest of the link...   drive the pin out but stop before you poke it through the bottom link... twist the top link sideways (rotate on its pin) so you can pull the roller link off.
do the same on the other side of the roller link to remove the roller link then drive out the remaining pin that is holding the outside links on... then re assemble
....
most chains have a safty link where you can take the chain apart if that's the case, simply take the chain apart and put the roller link on the vice and drive out the pin holding it, then drive out the remaining pin holding the outer links... and your back where you were... except one link shorter!
...
 on motorcycle chains I usually lay the chain on the ground and get my 2"x4"x12" piece of solid steel as an anvil.... put a 1/4x20 nut around the pin I want out and smack the pin link and all to drive the pin flush with the link... (big hammer) then once its started I use the nail set punch that is ground flat on the end.... or an old nail, or small screw driver.... LOL
this is not the method to use if its a high quality "O"ring chain.... use the punch ! if it bends straighten it !  LOL.... big hammer, straight hits, do it carefully ... chips from the punch in the eye hurt! ,smashed fingers take days to quit hurting!
if you happen to be lucky enough to be able to find your chain-breaker ....Use it ! but i can never find mine till I don't need it any more!  LOL
...
 Bob....

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
crb
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Posts: 293


« Reply #99 on: February 15, 2012, 01:48:17 pm »

Haven't got that far yet.  Still trying to get things to fit.
I don't have a chain breaker,  when I was working for a living,
I ground the ends off the chainlink ends and taped them through.
New sprocket should be here Friday.  A 10 tooth pinion.

33* out this morning still to darn cold, might get to 48* today...

crb


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crb
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« Reply #100 on: March 04, 2012, 08:16:05 am »

It got to about 54 yesterday, didn't feel that warm though.
Was able to take the next step and cut the angle for bearing
support.  Will try to weld that in today.  Have to repeat
the last step and put in another bearing support.  Then align bore time.
Still need to do welding on the sliding coupling.  Then more machining.

crb
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Bob
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« Reply #101 on: March 04, 2012, 09:32:46 am »

Slowly but surely ! keep after it and you'll get that thing workin' LOL
...
it was actually Warm outside yesterday !  in the 70's even !  I was pleasantly surprised!
...but my wife tells me more rain is on the way ! ... Bummer deal dude!
...
lol
Bob....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
randy
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« Reply #102 on: March 04, 2012, 03:12:53 pm »

It's been a mild winter up here too, been riding the xl quite a bit, can't believe how much I missed having a bike, catch myself grinning from ear to ear while just riding around, guess I like it.
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Bob
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« Reply #103 on: March 05, 2012, 02:07:44 am »

 yah if your like me you feel like a "fish-out-of-water" without a bike to ride.... at least every once in a while!
...
 I do think I'll sell my 1100cc Honda though as I have found if I want to ride I go on the XR650L
because its so light and quick...if I do though I know I'll regret it and kick myself in the butt from now on... but whats the sense in having it if I don't ride it but 2 times a year ? that makes the licenses and insurance really costly if you figure by the mile ! LOL!
... problem is I doubt I can get licenses on the XR650L because its missing its SMOG Pump shit some hoses on the front of the cylinder and a canister on the side and a mile of tubing! ... stupid California anyway ! ... I might be able to find that stuff at cycle salvage, I haven't tried!
...
 Hop on that Harley and come visit me Randy !.... I bet your butt would be sore by then ! LOL
... I'll buy ya a cup of coffee!
HAHAHAH!
Bob.....
 
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
crb
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Posts: 293


« Reply #104 on: March 05, 2012, 09:22:16 am »

Raining here too, I just wish it would get warmer 42* this AM.
Weather men say it's about 10* below normal.

Was able to cut out another bearing support,  no welding though.

crb
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