Fixen the brigs

[crb]

This engine is a pain, Has not run in at least 10-15 years, and the gas proves it. LOL
Stripped sparkplug, ancient gas royally gummed and plugged carb, and no spark.

I think I should have made the repairs, before putting the wheels in place of the tines.
Oh well, no crying over spilt milk.

The points wound up being the no spark, a little sandpaper took care of that. (Major pain though)

Disassembled carb and cleaned. (You need a vented gas cap) carb draws fuel directly from tank, attached to tank

Still working on the stripped sparkplug. (I jerry rigged a different sparkplug for now)

Got it running, but to hard to start, (fortunately I am able to use my electric drill to wing it over.)

Cleaned the gas cap and will try to start this morning.

crb

[crb]

I'm thinking this is a mistake ( derust gas tank POR15) $43.43 New tank around $65-$75 ebay.
No telling what else I will need, a new harbor freight 2 1/2 hp motor around a $100.00
Oh well we shall see.

crb

[Bob]

Hay CRB !
sorry I haven't responded to ya on this thred but for some reason it didn't notify me of your posts... it usually does !
...
Yah the points being under the flywheel are a royal pain in the butt... and its more than likely the reason its hard to start too...if the gap is too wide the timing will be off a long way... try setting the points with a smaller gap  that will usually make then easy to start!
... getting the fly wheel off again ain't so bad usually , once you had it off but getting it off after 15 yrs is a major pain in the ass! if you don't have a fly wheel puller, some times you can pry Up on the flywheel carefully in 2 places at once (I use large screw drivers for that) hold one down with your knee and then SMACK the crankshaft with a plastic hammer or wood block and hammer you do NOT want to peen over that shaft or swell it up because the ratchet for your pull start depends on it being the right size... if its mushroomed however you can take it down carefully with a metal file and get the pull-start to work great again.
the carb that bolts to the gas tank is a engineered Nightmare ! worst carb they ever used on B&S engines, however their purdy straight forward and easy to clean up...
the little pumper diaphram on the side is the only thing you need to be real careful of and it will need to be taken apart and cleaned that's the thing that gets clogged up ...or the rubber sticks to the metal and won't funtion
.... sticky valves may be part of the problem as well...  re threading the sparkplug hole to another size is not hard at all IF YOU HAVE THE TAP !  if not some times you can use the spark plug to thread the hole by cutting about 6 slots in the threads on the spark plug and very carefully use it as a tap to thread the hole.... I have done this about 8 times in my life but I do not recommend it as its make-do at best! the proper tap would require you to remove the head, and technically you should remove the head anyway to keep the thread shavings out of the cylinder.... at which time you can check the valves  and see if their seating good.
... Yes the gas cap needs to be vented  as you have discovered...and the carb properly adjusted to start the next time you try to start the thing...
other wise you can pull your guts out on one of those engines !
 I have learned through the years that taking the air cleaner off, Opening the throttle and giving it a shot of quick start , and pulling it through a few times will usually get them to fire up.... when they do fire up , put your hand over the carb and choak it  the increased vacume will suck out all the crud in the carb and usually that is all it takes to get them to run on their own....
so after 2 or 3 restarts they usually will go on their own....
 when you get the thing running and idling on its own , drop the RPM to a fairly slow idle and adjust the air screw and listen for the RPM change... adjust it to the fastest RPM you can get... you may have to slow it down and repete the adjustment a few times ... once that is done they will usually start the first pull (after warmed up)
....
I have a 5hp on my rototiller now.... it had a 3.5hp on it and it was purdy gutless with only 3.5hp
the 5hp is great in this rocky soil...
...
the only reason I would get another engine for it is to replace it with a bigger engine !
you can get the old one going , just be persistant ! LOL

...
Bob....
 

[crb]

Letting the gas tank sealer set for a couple of days, then try starting it again.
I was able to put a longer spark plug in it, there was a thread or so on the
bottom.  Will check spark plug when it's running, and see how far off the
heat range is.

One thing I was able to do when I got it running half-assed, was see how
fast the thing went. Anything more than a idle was faster than I want.

Any Idea what the ratio is from the drive to the tines?
Might try to change the ratio.

crb

[Bob]

No Idea... I never had either of the 2 gear boxes I have apart !
my guess is a 4:1 or 6:1 ratio
... yah you won't wann'a run it at 3,000RPM with wheels on it unless you have your runnin' shoes on!
hehehe
 you could put a Jack shaft on it though and gear it down before the motor.
a additional 4:1 or so would make it a real work horse! but you'll have to put tire chains on it for better traction then too ! LOL
.... I used mine to haul a sled in the deep snow one time...it needs paddle wheels for that to be of any use... it just sat there and spun !
....
I was thinking of gearing mine down with a jack shaft and then welding up some angle iron wheels with cleats every 3 or 4 inches like the old tractors used to have and add weight to it and pull a plow with it...
but it works just fine the way it is for moving the wagon around full of brush.
but I have the lawn tractor for that, as well as the Carbide 4 wheel go cart all set up to pull that trailer now so the only time I use the wheels on the rototiller is to load it in the truck or drive it to a place to use as a rototiller....I just swap the tines in and let er rip !
....
 I have a "Helicoil" Kit around here somewhere for re doing the spark plug threads... I bought it eions ago ... used up all the threads in it I think... not sure on that. but it was real simple to do... just bought the kit, tapped the hole with the supplied tap, put lock tight on the coil threads and screwed them in place , let it dry... clip off the barb and your good to go!
...last I saw the Kits were fairly**** cheap now...back then it sure wasn't! HAHAHAHA
...
yup,yup best to let the gas tank sealant set for at least a day or two before using it...
I patched many motorcycle gas tanks with that stuff.... and it usually holds for years!
....
something you can do for cracks on metal gas tanks is take a bar of soap and rub it into the crack good and hard..... that usually will make it stop leaking for a few hours ! ...enough to get home again when out dirt riding! hehehehe! I carried a bar of soap in my tool kit back then !
... my brother in law had soap on his gas tank for years before we finally epoxied it ! LOL
...
if the spring breaks on your pull starter, simply take the spring out and light up the propane torch... heat the end cherry red bend it to the shape you need, and then heat it up again and squirt it with water. to re-temper it... some times I don't even re-temper it at all.
what breaks the springs is pulling the starter rope all the way out to the hilt when starting it.
so don't pull the rope starter out till it stops !
  ...
Bob....

[crb]

The motor has about a 1 1/2" pully and goes to about a 10" pully.
Don't think I can get any larger pully, without to much pully offset.

From the pully to the tine shaft I just checked it, was 6 to 1 ratio.

Don't know if I can get anymore than that, will look into it more though.

I have a spark plug insert somewhere, got to dig more.

crb

[Bob]

oh  Yah ! that's a great idea ! a spark plug insert !  just tap the hole for the insert and put the plug in the insert! ....why didn't I think of that ! HEHEHEHE
 probably because I never used them, I went the helicoil way instead ! <grin> but its a great option!
...
well if you have the room you could go with a 12" pulley ...
My rototiller has a shield just under the pulley that would have to be cut off to put a larger pulley on it.
Bob...

[crb]

I did check into a insert for the spark plug about 30 bux for a kit.
I might as well buy a new harbor freight motor.
I have another 24-30 hours to wait for the gas tank sealer to cure.
I do have an idea for more gear reduction, got to get it running first.
Been working on the governor, according to the book, it wasn't
even close.  I hope I've got it correct now.
I did replace a spring for the lever on the governor, not to sure on
how critical the tension is.

crb

[Bob]

there is 2 springs down there if I remember correctly
one pulls the long lever toward the fast side the other pulls the lever to the idle side
and the centrifical govener trys to push it to the fast side... so the adjustment on the governor
just changes the spring tension pulling the lever to the idle side
it is fairly critical... adjust it to where it holds the throttle just barely closed
then when its running you can adjust it better....don't have the engine run too fast .... just above an idle is usually enough. say 2000~2500RPM
...
where problems are encountered  on the governor is the lever being removed.... the shaft must be turned all the way to the counter clockwise position before the lever is put back on..... at least I think that is how it works ! <GRIN> ofcorse it might be just the oppisit ! LOL
...
Bob...

[crb]

On my unit there is only 1 spring.  It is really screwed up, I talked to
a local small engine repair person, he seemed to think it wasn't
super critical on the spring tension.  (not to strong)

I have everything fairly accessible, not to let over rev.

Wouldn't you know it raining this AM, hope it clears up.

Have to go and get gas this morning, Today is the big test.

crb

[Bob]

Good luck to ya !
if you decide to get another motor for it I'd definitely go with a 5hp rather than a 3.5 or 2hp
their a much stronger engine.
...
you don't have to have a governor on the engine... its just a nice thing to have. makes it allot easier when you put the engine under a load having the governor give it some throttle for you.
...
Bob...

[Bob]

Any Luck
...
Bob

[crb]

Got it running, now to battle with gas leaks (old gaskets)
Need to get a gasket from tank to carb.  Might try pvc (shower pan liner).

Any idea if the pvc will work?

The Governor also works, I extended the governor control rods, that
put the rpm to an acceptable level.  Still too much rpm but lots of power,
don't think I want the rpm any lower.

Tried going up a little hill off the patio (about 18" rise in 12-18") didn't even hesitate.
spun the tires a bit.

Not sure if I want to start the wagon or the gear reduction setup first
want to cure the fuel leaks first.

Went to Harbor Freight yesterday and got two of there 10" wheels for the wagon.

Might start on the wagon.


crb

[Bob]

I've never tried Shower pan liner for gaskets on gasoline but I have used RTV silicone before and the trick with it is to put it on the cleaned carb side of the 2 surfaces  let it dry and then put it on.
if you put it on while its wet the gas will keep it from drying...(unless the tank is bone dry)
goop the carb and let it dry most the way and then goop the tank and bolt them together ...that should also work.
even a cardboard gasket will do the trick, one from a cerial box... but goop the gasket on both sides with "copper coat" or RTV silicone....
 I used the spray "copper-coat"  on my Briggs & Stratton 5hp and haven't had a problem with it at all.
...did the same to the 8hp that I put on the Ban-saw saw mill... it still starts on the 2nd pull even after setting for months!
...
I usually use the thin card-board from dog biscuit boxes...its just a bit thicker and works very good for gaskets.
 on something like the intake manifold gasket I spray a Rough cutout of cardboard and stick it to the intake  and cover it completely.... after about 5 to 10 minutes its stuck on there real good and I can take a small ball-peen hammer and tap lightly around the edges and cut out the gasket quick and easy.... even the bolt holes.... then  remove the trimmings and spray that side and put the thing together!
....
Aviation gasket GOO is also widely used, but it will gum up a carburetor real easy if your not careful ... I'd rather use RTV Silicone than the Aviation goop any more... its just easier to mess with.
...
Congrats on winning the battle with that B&S ! good job !
...
Bob....
 

[crb]

I got some gasket material from a auto parts store (crapa).
Seems to be doing the job, I'm thinking I should have put "copper coat"
on the gasket though, we shall see.
Got a 3/4-10 nut and bolt for part of the trailer hitch (swivel).
Need to get more plate for the hitch.
I think the rear tread width will be 24". (that's what my axle is)
I think the actual box will be about 30-32" wide by about 4 foot. (maybe)

crb