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Author Topic: isn't ANYONE doing anything with Hydroxy gas any more ?  (Read 876 times)
Bob
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« on: May 04, 2010, 01:34:53 am »

I'm beginning to wonder if I'm the only one even thinking about it anymore...!
has everyone given up or what ? <GRIN>
there sure hasn't been much activity on here lately... even Tink hasn't said anything about his wind generator....  what?Huh? do I have bad breath er what ? LOL !
....
Bob.....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
janmarsh
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« Reply #1 on: May 04, 2010, 06:13:02 pm »

Bob,
        I'm working on the power side at the moment. Permanent Magnet Alternators have 30% to 50% greater efficiency than conventional so I'm having a go at rewinding Industrial Servo Motors to use as alternators.

The one in the photos is a small unit, rotor is 6 pole,4 rare earth magnets per pole, measuring 2" dia. , 6" long.  Stator is 18 pole, 6 windings in parallel per phase, should give a high amp output relative to voltage when also connected in Delta.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2010, 07:10:38 am by janmarsh » Logged

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Bob
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« Reply #2 on: May 04, 2010, 11:57:41 pm »

Wow ! that looks like a challenge !  good luck with that !
any idea what kind of voltage and amperage you'll get out'a one of those ?
no doubt we need a better power-source than the conventional alternator, if that puts out really good power it may well power a Hydroxy cell big enough to power the engine itself !
... keep up the good work !
...
Bob....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
janmarsh
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2010, 03:32:26 am »

I'm uncertain of potential output at the moment Bob.  This is new ground for me. As long as I follow good design practice, I hope to be in with a reasonable chance of good output.

If I only had more time to dedicate to this project, my head is full of design ideas which I have accumulated by reading your's , Randy's & others input.

The electrical side has never been my profession, Automobile Mechanics neither..........  I have spent most of my career working on engines somewhat larger........  climbing down a cylinder bore to measure wear was the scale I was more familiar with.

I cannot post actual performance figures of HHO output of my car at the moment. I should concentrate on at least getting a test bed engine running.

I have chosen the 600cc Honda N600 sedan as my project vehicle. Fairly rare today, although still to be found in The States & U.K.   

Finding engine parts to build spare engines is the problem these days..........  Honda ceased production 34 years ago.

I will post further photo's of what I am doing for your comments & advice. 

                                                                                                         Marshall.

   
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My Wife admits to maybe having faults...... but being wrong is'nt one of them.
janmarsh
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2010, 05:01:02 am »

Here is a headache I have with an N600 engine I am rebuilding:

The twin cylinder crankshaft has a badly damaged big end & journal. Nothing is thrown away these days & ways have to be found to make all repairs.

As with all crank bearings, big ends are of a needle roller design.   I'm thinking of building the journal up with tiny "buttons" of weld, regrinding & press fitting an inner needle roller shell.   The con rod big end should have enough material to take a regrind.

Are you aware of this being tried before ? I dont have a great deal to lose.  This crank belongs to an automatic version of the N600 & is rarer still.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2010, 05:11:03 am by janmarsh » Logged

My Wife admits to maybe having faults...... but being wrong is'nt one of them.
Bob
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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2010, 01:02:59 pm »

Marshal... personally I'ed put new needle bearings in it and slap it back together and use it that way
rather than worrying about the small size diference.
you might and I say MIGHT be able to cut the crank pin a bit more undersize and slip a collar/ring of hard steel around the pin to get it back to size.... or you could just make a new crank PIN which is probably the easiest route.
.... personally I'ed just run it with the bearings themselves replaced... as long as there isn't something like 1/8" of con rod slop it should run for many years !  its true that any con rod slop is a bad thing... because it will hammer itself into distruction in a short period of time, However... I have replaced needle bearings in chainsaw engines with Nails... and had them work great...needle bearings are amazing... they just keep on working unlike babbit type bearings! and with needle bearings there is going to be some con-rod slop.... you can't get away from it...but less is more here, of course!
...
sense its an old engine there is going to be ware in it.... if you fix ONE part and Not all the rest you create a point of stress that can make all the rest of the parts fail....
its like installing new piston rings, and seating the valves WITHOUT doing the rod bearings, the added compression on a old engine is going to make the rod bearings fail in a short period of time...
but then again depending on your LUCK it could last for ever.... its just a gamble
...
 if it were me ...I'ed just make it run.... not try to repair it to its original specks....
... (that's my 2 cents worth...FWIW)
Bob.......

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Manta
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« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2010, 05:25:28 am »

Janmarsh,

I believe that it was once standard practice to build up the big end journals using mig weld. Then machine back to size. You would have to be careful about not creating potential fracture stresses though.  Another way,  if you are going to use an inner bearing case and not just the crank surface,  is to get the journal built up by metal spraying.


Manta

Bob, nails for needles !!  Shame on you. Grin
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janmarsh
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« Reply #7 on: May 06, 2010, 06:03:13 am »

Dave,
         I had to chuckle when Bob used nails for needles.......... brilliant make-do strategy.

You mention Mig. I was wondering what form of welding would be best !

I'm conscious of the heat effect you also mention............... tiny momentary spots of weld around the built up face may help.
Only 1.5 to 1.75mm on the diameter is all that is required. Spraying is certainly worth looking into....... if an assured hardness of the build comes with that process, that would be the way to go.

It's the resulting surface hardness which makes me feel I may require an inner shell, whatever process is used.

                                                                                                                Marshall.
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My Wife admits to maybe having faults...... but being wrong is'nt one of them.
Bob
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« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2010, 12:53:39 pm »

hehehe Yah Well it worked !
What happened was the chainsaw pooped out ...I took it appart to find about 3 of the needle bearings in the big end shattered and pieces all over...
 strangely enough the bearing surface on the crank pin was in good shape ! nice and smooth ... I didn't bother to Mic it because it didn't matter to me... I already knew the machine was wore out!
... the needle bearings were almost the same diamator of some nails I had on hand, just that the nails were a tiny bit larger... I thought thats probably a good thing to make up for the ware!
I cut as many needle bearings as I needed to make the circle around the big end and they all actually fit ( I got really Lucky there!)... lubed it well with oil and pressed the crank halves back together and then spun the rod on the crank for about 2 days...by hand and it slowly smothed itself out..
I re assembled the saw and it ran fine for a few years after that.... it finally did give up the ghost when the piston rings stuck to the piston and then broke on one side and chewed up the piston and cylinder.... there was no saving it after that....
.... I was the only one using that saw, so I knew to keep the RPM down as much as possable...
but after a while I simply ran it like any other saw and it held up anyway.... actually I was supprised!  I figured the nail meterial was much softer than the original needle bearings but  it actually held up !.... i figured it'ed self distruct in a week at the most but the crank never did give up ! LOL !
... yes they were hard nails but not tempered steel ! HAHAHAH!
... that saw was a small Stihl saw.... I cut more trees with it when I was younger than any saw I ever used ! HAHAHAHAH it only had a 14" bar on it but  I could cut a 20" tree up with it ....
( I had more energy then than I do now too ! LOL)
...
you know...some times, you fall in and come out smelling like a Rose!
heheheh
...
Bob....

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
H²+O
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« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2010, 04:17:08 am »

changed my mind I'm going to post it in
(Hydroxy Generator PLANS) http://www.hydroxyhut.com/index.php/board,16.0.html
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