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Author Topic: My Design for a Band saw Sawmill.  (Read 9342 times)
Bob
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« on: January 22, 2010, 07:03:56 pm »

Well I have been wanting a Band-Saw Sawmill for about 20 years now and I decided to draw up plans and make one finally....
...
what I usually do is Draw the thing to exact scale so I can take the measurements off the parts in the drawing... all I have to do is select them and it gives me the dimentions of the thing...
however when I modify a part it goes into a different mode and I can't get the measurements off of it any more so I simply take them off the grid measurements... which works in a pinch.
well this drawing for some reason is going to have to be entirely off the grid. its no biggy but
I do like to look at the part and tell its a 2"x2" tube 24" long and stuff like that
now I have to count squares that are 1" square.... oh well !
....
 I designed this to be powered by a 8hp B&S engine a bit small for the task but it should work ok.
but its the biggest engine I have that runs good, the 12hp is out there but the rings are so bad in it I doubt it will even start anymore ! LOL
...
I designed the band saw around 2 wheels and spindles that I had on my old screw type log splitter
anyone can substitute the small trailer wheels from "Northern tools catalog" easily enough.
... the drive for the wheels that are on spindles comes from a "U"shaped attachment cog that would fit in the slots of the Rim on the trailer tires... so the drive method would even stay the same
if you had to go out and buy the parts.
... I discovered that once I had the drawing done (at about number 5) that I wouldn't be able to replace a broken band saw blade unless I took the entire drive out... so that had to change.
and then I added a clutch, a kill switch, and height adjustment,and even a push bar.
the problem is seeing all the detail in a few pictures....  but if anyone wants more pics I'll be happy to post them so just say so...
heres an over all pic of the thing.
...
Bob......

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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« Reply #1 on: January 22, 2010, 07:07:59 pm »

you'll notice in the drawing that there are 2 square sizes, the larger one is 1ft square and the smaller one is 1"square....
its approx 6ft wide and the wheels and spindles age approx 16" tall...at least in the drawing... I wasn't about to go out in the rain to measure them what ever it is I'll make'em fit
LOL !
...
Bob....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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« Reply #2 on: January 23, 2010, 08:56:12 pm »

OK, well, I went outside and measured the tires/wheels I plan to use on the band saw sawmill...
and lo-and behold  my guesstament on their height was way off, turns out they are 19.5" tall
so I re did the drawing to reflect that because when I made them bigger they hit the sides !
so I expanded everything sideways and raised the main bar up top about 4" or so
... anyway...  its still about 5.5ft to 6ft wide, same height and length. same animal just a bit longer pieces in it to make it up... its cutting ability is 22" between the blade guides
.... should make lotsa' lumber ! LOL
...
Bob...
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2010, 06:24:57 am »

Well, lets see.... I added sliding clamps to the band saw blade steadier, so that can be adjusted now. added clamps on the up/down so it can't Move when sawing....
and made 2 log dogs to hold the log from rolling.
 and in general fixed up the drawing to better show what it is.
I figure an 8hp to 15hp would make this baby cut real good.... but allot of the speed of cutting depends on the blade used.... My Friend John Gill had I think a 20hp engine on his store bought mill and it never bogged down no matter what he was cutting ! and it cut at a slow walking speed, not a crawl.
 I haven't put a guard around the blade because the blade is already covered by the frame, and adding more weight just makes it harder to deal with.
 I may add some blade catchers to keep the band saw blade contained if it should come off the wheels. but I haven't decided on that yet.
....
heres the final drawing Pic's
Bob.......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2010, 06:36:34 am »

one last pic from the other side.
 You'll notice that the handle is down(enguaged) for the clutch.
 (where the operator stands to push the handle,to move the cutter through the log.)
...
Bob.....

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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« Reply #5 on: February 09, 2010, 01:06:59 pm »

Now... One thing I really do NOT like about this design is the rails that the thing rides on....
1. they have to be perfectly parallel. and stay that way !
2. they have to be level... on ground that ISN'T LEVEL at all
....
that's a major problem unless I make a rigid frame work for it to set on, like put it on a trailer
or something....
 but that means Loading the logs on to the trailer instead of dragging them up and rolling them over.
I do have a tractor so I could load them without much hassle... and I'll be bringing the logs to the mill with the tractor anyway.... so just a Kant Hook attached to the bucket should allow the lifting of the logs.
... but that is still up on a trailer problem.... I'ed rather have it on the ground ...
I might weld 2 spreaders on to the rails but I know in so doing  (welding up a rectangle out of steel) it will inevitably Twist out of plumb so perhaps if I made spreader bars that plug into the rails to keep them the right distance apart and then all I'd have to worry about is getting it level....   I figure once its set up it will stay there more than likely... and I won't be moving it around much.... but if it was on a trailer I could move it real easily and take it to the pasture where all the logs ARE !.... easier all the way around !  I could use jack stands to set under the trailer/sawmill to steady it and make it solid.  but I am worried about BIG logs...
a 20" diam Pine log 11ft long is so heavy my tractor cannot lift one end of it.... the back of the tractor comes off the ground!   .....
so that almost makes it a Necessity to bring the rails to the log! not the log to the rails ! HEHEHEH
....
so I am kind of in a quandary about which way to go at the moment.
any suggestions people ?
... I'm kind of favoring building it on a trailer.... with rollers and a boat winch I could load logs fairly easily..... hummm
....

Bob.....


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Manta
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« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2010, 07:43:46 am »

Bob,

First place I ever worked when I left school,  back in 1959,  was a timber yard.  when we were out in the field we use to move the big logs by lifting just one end off the ground and dragging them along with the tractor.
The tractor in use was a Fordson Diesel Major fitted with a winch and a big sprag on the back to pull against.  Maybe you could rig up something similar.

Manta.
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Bob
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« Reply #7 on: February 10, 2010, 11:23:27 am »

ummm what are you calling a sprag Manta ?  I don't follow you !
...
 i'm sittin here eating a big breakfast .... and plan to go out and work it off this afternoon hehehe
... the tractor has a 3 point hitch on it so I can hook a chain to the drag blade or plow on the back and lift a log end up ... if its not too big. just lowering the impliment to the ground and hooking a chain to the log and then to the down impliment, and short couple it and then raise it will almost alwayse get what ever it is off the ground ! but there is a limmit , it won't pull out stumps that way LOL.....
....
the more I think on it the more I think I'll build it on the old tractor trailer up the hill....
though the trailer deck is totally shot... it is long enough so I could cut 20ft boards into lumber if I wanted to.... almost all the trees here are under 2 ft in diamator.... most infact are about a foot in diamator to 18" or so.... although the big pines are ...well...BIG and they may well pose a problem...
 I got to thinking I could make the saw mill on the 30 ft trailer and even add a roof to it to keep the rain off me .... with a winch and a few rollers getting a log loaded shouldn't be that hard.... I guess if it is I'll have to devise a ging pole to load the logs... so it can be done one way or another ! HAHAHAHA
....
Man, I will sure be glad when it DRIES OUT A BIT !..... I haven't seen this much rain sense I was a Kid here ...about 40 years ago ! LOL !... I guess Back east is getting hit really hard...setting records all over the place for the most snow  ever !.... better them than me ! LOL !
.....
Bob......



 
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2010, 04:57:36 pm »

Well, I went up to that trailer thats been sitting in one place for at least 20 years
the tires arn't looking very good... obviously... and the wood plank deck is almost completely rotted away... in fact I'd be scared to try and walk on it <GRIN>
but the frame is there and in good enough shape to use, its a large Mobil home frame that was cut down for the job of moving the tractor and household goods its 3 axles under it are a pain and My step dad finally chained up the last set of axles and took the wheels off so it would turn corners better!
 its 6' 6" wide between the main rails which seams rather wide but should do fine actually as the Band-saw design is 6' wide if I remember correctly so adding a few inches is no biggy at all.
...
I cut down about 3 more fairly large oak trees this morning making a few more 12 to 15 ft logs... I've got quite a few logs lined up now.... and when the ground dries out enough I will go haul them with the tractor and put them in a stack so they dry good.
....
I have my reservations of trying to cut dried white oak with the ban saw sawmill though because that stuff is so very hard you cannot drive nails into it ! no .....REALLY!
you have to pre drill holes and use long sheet rock screws to build anything out of this oak ! its very hard on saw blades once it dries out ! but it is a beautiful wood!
...most of the logs I have cut already are destined for a bridge over a small creek.
as this creek or Rill as I call it divides the property on that side of the pond, right now I am driving through the creek in the Putt-putt to get to that side of the property
and clear brush.... so a good bridge is needed there....
 Boy I tell ya I dunno what I did without that little  buggy/putt-putt its a Carbide model of a 4 wheel go-cart, with a rack on the back and a roll cage and 2 bucket seats
it has a little 150cc motor in it with electric start and its perfect to throw the chainsaw in it and go over and cut brush ! My sister got it for me from "Tractor Supply"
and I have used the heck out of it... its only has the back 2 wheels powered but you wouldn't know it, as it goes just about anywhere !
anyway... my back is hurting from using that chainsaw this morning so I'm taking the rest of the day off ! LOL !
....
Bob.......




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Bob
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« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2010, 10:16:35 pm »

Well, I'm committed to making the band saw Sawmill now.... I cut the axel off of the wheels and drilled a few holes in a 2"x2" hunk of angle iron I have, and attached the wheel/pintle blocks (axels are bolted to a nice heavy alumimum block that used to at one time be attached to leaf springs I think.)
anyway, to make a long story short I attached both wheels to the angle iron and put the old bandsaw blade around the tires.... tightened up the adjustment ( I made 1" long slots when I drilled the holes on one end) and then spun the tires by hand .... and to my amazement the band saw blade stayed on just fine !
....
I may make a diferent motor hookup than in my drawings but I haven't decided yet.  I am think of trying a electric motor and a friction drive to run on the tires... and see if that works or not.
.....
the biggest reason I haven't built one in the past is because keeping the band saw blade on seamed so precarious at best .... and I find it strange that this thing is staying on so easily ! <GRIN>
...
if need be I can add a slight twist to the wheel mounts to change the orientation of the wheels to help keep the blade on...but thus far there has been no need ! hehehehehhehe
.....
 all in all I'ed say it looks like its going to work just fine.... all I gott'a do is BUILD IT!
heheheheh
...
Bob........

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Bob
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« Reply #10 on: February 17, 2010, 05:10:18 am »

Sense I have to build it as cheeply as possable .... I'm scrounging up the metal to do it with here on the Ranch.... I found an old steel bench that I moved down ages ago that has 3" channel iron in it...
so I cut off one of the best rails and am going to use it as the SLIDES on the side instead of the tubes
that are in my drawing... a few straps and a locking bolt with a "T" handle should take care of the up and down movement of the band-saw unit.
... I welded the channel iron on to the 2" angle iron this evening... I just eyeballed it and I am hoping it is straight enough! LOL
...
I may get the straps on the SLIDES tomorrow... hard to say... I have a bunch of things to work on!
.......
Bob...
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Bob
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« Reply #11 on: February 20, 2010, 06:44:41 am »

I havn't got the slides on yet, I got busy getting the silly band-saw blade to track correctly
finally got it close... a washer is too thick to ise as a shim it takes 2 pieces of that shimstock Randy sent me to get it in line so the blade stays near the center of the tred on the tires...
...
 HOWEVER I may have a serious problem... I noticed that the wheels/tires and rims are not spinning perfectly... they are off center...and this is bad !
both wheels are off by as much as 1/4"
they go up and down when ya spin them by that much! .... DRAT THE LUCK !
.... I may try taking a carving tool or grinder to them as they spin to true them up ...but I don't think I can get that much out.... the tread is only 1/8" deep....so I dunno if its worth the bother!
... I put the wheels in sink by making sure they were orentated just right and that seams to help but the band saw blade goes up and down by almost 1/4" regardless of my tinkering...
that in itself is not acceptable.... unless I don't mind a wavy line on my cuts !
or 1/4" Kerf ! ....
all in all I think something is going to have to be changed.... perhaps buy different wheels  I don't know!
...
who'ed have thought that a military axel would be so out of round Huh??   ok, I figure its probably a "Howitzer" set of wheels... or small cannon to be towed behind a jeep... at 45mph that thing would be Hopping all over the place back there ! LOL ! maybe that is why they go slow Huh? HAHAHAHAHAHA
...
Bob.....


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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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Posts: 2852



« Reply #12 on: February 23, 2010, 03:52:19 pm »

Well, I tried an experiment with my band-saw sawmill yesterday.... I rigged up a wheel on a 2hp electric motor that turns at 3440rpm and held it against the tire on the band saw.... in a "friction drive" arrangement. it reached top speed and was just about right for the speed, not too fast not too slow.... but the darn thing Hopped all over the place and shook like the house afire!...
 I can't have that kind of shaking on the band saw so I've deiced to try another set of wheels I have
their 15" plastic rim semi pneumatic tires that I got for the gyro copter ages ago and discovered that they wern't near strong enough for the job heheheh.... they are mounted on a boat trailer jack at the moment that I made up but discovered that they flexed way to much for that too !....
sense the band saw will only have a max of 30 to 50lb of tension on the blade they should be fine for the saw.
 Although they are smaller in diameter than the other wheels they do spin true!
 so I am in the process of getting the mounts for the wheels made up
the wheels have a 5/8" bolt as an axel that I welded to a pipe as the connection between the wheels
I'll simply cut off about 6" off the pipe and weld that to a plate so I can put my adjusters on the plate and anchor that to the angle iron on the band saw frame ....
I'm going to have to re work almost everything to change the wheels but if I'm going to do it, I just as well do it RIGHT !   I will use a 12" V belt pulley attached to the spokes on the wheels
and then use another step down pulley off the motor as a Jack shaft to lower the speed of the turning
if I am careful I think I can get a 24:1 gear reduction from the motor to the Band saw .
.....
I got looking for a decent motor to put on the band saw Sawmill and the biggest motor I have is a 8hp
.... that's not very big at all ! but it will have to do I guess as I don't have the money to go buy a 20hp motor ! LOL
the other engines I have here are too big....but I may consider using one of them anyway once I get this thing working good.  I have a Mercadies 240cid. and a 2000cc VW engine and a chevy citation... and even a 351v8 in the old dodge ! LOL   but all of these are too heavy to be on a trolley moving on stilts!
.... so for now I'll use a small B&S 5~8hp and use that
....
it was encouraging to see the band saw spin up the other day.... the blade stayed on well and looked to be able to cut wood at a good clip....but that depends on the hp of the motor to pull it through the wood I guess !
....
Bob.....
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Bob
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« Reply #13 on: February 25, 2010, 07:47:51 am »

Ok well.... I got the trailer wheels off and the smaller plastic wheels on ...
I made up some new spindles for them sense they fit a 1/2" bolt.... I just welded a long 1/2" bolt to a piece of 2" angle iron and drilled 4 holes in each one as mounting holes...
I then put the spindles on and held them on with vise grips, and got the band saw blade on and spun it by hand and it was staying on very good.... its "BOUNCE" was much much less than with the other wheels
so I think I'm on the right track !...
 I also mounted a 12" v belt pulley on one of the wheels...
...
if the rain holds off I can have the thing running with a electric motor in no time....
but if i put the Jack-shaft on it to reduce the RPM that will take some more time.
I don't like the idea of being near that thing with it "Singing" at high RPM's and not having a guard around it ! .... the way it is now if I hook the motor to that v-belt it will be a 6:1 reduction
sense the motor turns at 3440rpm  that's 573.33 RPM on the wheels... which is purdy darn fast... but it should take it with no problem..... so I think I'll give it a try and see what it acts like.
...
I have to get the spindles mounted properly first though .... and some spacers made for the spindle bolts (their about 4" too long! LOL)
...
anyway... I'm making progress !
...
Bob......

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Bob
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Posts: 2852



« Reply #14 on: February 25, 2010, 07:07:14 pm »

well, I got the wheels and their axle's mounted and tracking fairly good....
it hasn't spit off the band saw blade yet and stays mostly in the center of the tires<GRIN>
I welded a 1" water pipe to the top of the "spredders" the things that will travel up and down on the height adjustment.... and welded a motor mounting plate to it...
 I need a fairly large v-belt now, and I'm going to add a tensionier to keep the band saw blade good and tight . I'll mount that in the center between the 2 wheels pointing up.
if I do it right it should maintain a constant pressure on the band saw blade.
...I'ed like to have it spring loaded that way it can flex when it needs to... sense I am not dealing with perfectly circular things here... building in FLEX is a good idea!
...
right now I am planning on using a 2hp electric motor on it just for test purposes.
because I figure there will be allot of adjustments on the thing before I finally get it correct to cut logs.
... next will be the guides and tensionier....I dunno where I'm going to find berrings but I gott'a have 4 of them.... maybe 5
...
anyway... making progress
...
Bob......
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