My Version of the GEET Reactor...

[Bob]

Hatejo:
 Glad to have ya aboard the forum by the way! ....What problems are you facing ? 2 heads are better than one in solving problems!....
  I havn't got back to the 3.5hp Briggs and Vaporized Gasoline yet...but will eventually I am sure!
... Right now my major project is building a woodgas generator LOL.... almost got it ready to put in the truck! HAHAHHA
... Please elaborate on your project, its alwayse good to hear other people messing about with things ! HAHAHA
Bob.......

[Bob]

Hatejo:
 My Views and explinations of whats going on in an engine are not NORMAL! ... many so called good Mechanics would beg to differ with my explinations... so use what I say as a Guide and get MORE information as well... My word is not the all and end all on the subject by any means, I have many decades of mechanicing experience under my belt,and come by my views through experience... not formal classes, although I did take auto-shop in High school and go to the Kawasaki School in Portland Or. THEORY of how the engines work never comes into it... only by years of playing around with engines and trying new things have I come up with my outlandish views! LOL
... Most Mechanics would tell you that Heating the Gasoline is the WRONG approach ! You want to COOL the gasoline instead...simply because  the Efficiency of an engine is the Temperature IN and the temperature OUT.... the wider the gap the more efficient the engine!...
 and this IS TRUE.... But Personally I could care less if the engine is efficient or not as long as I get great gas mileage ! ... but they would say that you won't get good gas mileage without an efficient engine !... and that is where I disagree !  the more efficient the engine HELPS achieve better gasoline Mileage... but its not the only thing that determines the mileage !
 the biggest thing I have found to improve Gasoline Mileage in todays trucks is the Carberation,exhaust system and the gearing........ but even that is getting dated as I grow older....
because there are no carberators on most of these trucks now days... their fuel injected!
...
but I have seen, a Ford f-100 getting 11mpg after coming from the Ford SHOP in Reno... go to 22MPG by changing the exhaust to 3" diameter and putting in a overdrive unit.... he also changed the carburetor... shortly there after and got 25MPG....  this isn't possible if you believe what they tell you at the Ford dealer !   they will tell you you NEED the back pressure in the exhaust system !
.... and that is a complete Lie. you do not need back pressure on a 4 cycle engine's exhaust...infact the bigger the exhaust the better ( to a certain point!)...but EXPERTS will try and convince you otherwise... you Must have back pressure in the exhaust system in order to be efficient!....
(and get crummy gas Mileage!<GRIN>)
 As for heating the gas/fuel the experts say that for every 10degrees above the ambient temperature (of intake air/fuel) you can loose 10% of your horsepower.... this is why they say don't heat it !
...
however...if heating my FUEL/AIR Up to 200 degrees or higher gets me 50MPG or MUCH more... what do I care if I loose 20% of the Max raited HP of the engine ?
... for the most part they are stuck on details and miss the big picture...
 Ideas and Theory abound... do your homework and don't take anyones word for it ...not even Mine ! LOL
...
Bob.......


 

[Tink]

Well said, Bob. It is so true about the temp. of the gas. When I was motorcycling around the country the machine always ran better cold and the performance went down as it heated up. But I also believe the mpg also went through the floor when it was cold too. I've seen eleraborate devices to cool the gas but it was to increase horse power, mpg was of no consern. Nowadays mpg is the focus and so we loose a bit of the performance. I know Detroit could produce a car with plenty of power and great mpg. They have been taken over by greed and the heck with anything else, now they and we are suffering.
Tink

ps. my wind turbine will be here in a few days! I'm going to use a real good paint stripper to get the paint off the box for the dump load then paint it with 1200 degree stove paint. Engine block paint only goes up to  500 degrees as I found out. What should I use to condition the metal before aplying the high temp paint?

[Bob]

High temp Primers are Non exhistant...you can't find them anywhere (I've looked)...
so just sand the surface and paint it with your high temp paint...that's all you can do.
...
I bought 2 cans of Krylon stove and BBQ paint (black,1200deg.) for my Woodgas producer... but getting the paint off that can will be near imposable so I think I will just torch it off by the burner and leave it at that!....... I could sand it off with a DA sander... but that's allot of work and I am LAZY ! LOL
...
Bob

[Bob]

Back to the Geet Reactor....
 CRB sent me a pic of the Geet reactor  so I figured I'd post it here
this is almost exactly what I built for the B&S 3.5hp
(although I welded mine up , I didn't screw it together.)
...
Bob.....

[Tink]

I went to ACE hardware and got a can of the Liquid Stripper to remove the gray paint of that main breaker box for the DC heater and it worked real good. I did a lot of scrapping with a pudy knife but I got it all off.
Tink

[Bob]

Back to the Vaporization problems....
when you put air under vacuum as in down the throat of a carburetor, the temperature drops in that air SIGNIFICANTLY... (not just a small amount!)  so if your ambient air is say 100degrees and you put it through a vacuum the air temp drops down a long way... probably close to 40 degrees at -20psi.
....
  if you've ever blown yourself off with an air-hose on a hot day you'll notice that the air the air compressor is taking in is HOT but what you feel at the air nozzle is cool.... that's because of the pressure difference... soon as the air leaves the nozzle of the air gun it expands (because it was compressed), and expanding air cools down rapidly, (not COMPRESSED AIR) because the molecules are further apart now and release their heat as they expand back into normal ambient temperatures...
....
any time you squeeze the air molecules together the temp goes up, anytime you stretch the molecules apart the temp goes down.
...
 so with the vacume of the I.C. Engine working its Magic on the air the temp alwayse drops on the intake... if you add Gasoline vapor or dropplets into the air as a Mix it drops even further.
...if some one tells you that a carberator runs the car on gasoline Vapor  they are telling you a HALF TRUTH... because gasoline does not VAPORIZE untill it reaches 110degrees in tempature. below that it is still a MIST of droplets...its not a TRUE Vapor....
... when you boil water you are turning water into Vapor by changeing its tempature... soon as the vapor cools down it reverts back to its original state of Liquid...but sense it is DISPERSED or Mixed up with so much AIR all you see is a fog, not a Liquid. that FOG is not water vapor its a Mist
...the same thing hapens to gasoline but at a lower tempature instead of the 220degrees of water turning to vapor, its only 110degrees for gasoline to change to Vapor... but the same thing happens to gasoline that happens to water when it Condenses back into its original liquid form.. because the gasoline is so spread out by the AIR, you will see a FOG not the Vapor... because te Vapor in water and Gasoline is invisable, you cannot see it, its a gas like hydrogen floating off .
...
So if we try to truly VAPORIZE the gasoline we have to raise its tempature to above 110 degrees and keep it there... that's easy to do with the exhaust heat at hand.  as a vapor gasoline is at its most explosive, and as closely packed as the molicules can be without re-condenceing back into Liquid form. HOWEVER that does not mean the engine will run on that same amount of fuel once it is turned into vapor because it expands so much that it takes much more of it to do the same thing that it used to....
...
 an experiment I played with proved that to me ... in my truck I had the vaporizer working well... it was a cold morning start-up and I fired it up and got it to idle great at 1/4 turn open on the needle valve... as the temp quickly rose higher and higher the engine started to stagger  more and more....till I had to open the valve or the engine would die... once the engine was at operateing tempature the valve had to be at almost 1/2 turn open... but the engine ran very smoothly just sitting there parked. ...I truly thought I had it beat at that point... till I tried to move the truck and all kinds of different things happened.... the higher RPM drew in more air which cooled down the intake, which had a drastic effect on the gasoline vapor... dropping the air inthe throat of the carberator to a mear 94degrees.... and the truck ran way too rich, it staggered and bucked and complained untill the heat was allowed to get above 110degrees again in the air stream of the carberator.... it would ONLY do that at IDLE...at 2500 RPM it dropped to below 100degrees...
so I found the culpret... it was tempature.
so I got to thinking what temp do I need... at the intake?  when the vacuum drops the temp so drastically, it has to be above what ever drop the vacuum does, say 40 to 50 degrees... so that means 160 degrees at a Minimum.... so I sat my sights on 200degrees because that was a nice round number and it would give me a bit of fluctuation on the colder temps as well. 
at that point I got away from the thing and haven't got back to it sense...  (LOL)
...
Now if you guys take what I learned and apply it to your tinkering you may well be the one to come up with a 200MPG car
... But Please post your experiments here so we can ALL learn !
 believe me if you try to make your Millions on vaporized gasoline you'll have a very tough time of it ... if you don't draw the attention of the Oil companies... if you do , well its been nice knowing ya ! ...
 LOL
...
Bob......

[Tink]

Bob,
I've been too busy to do much of anything lately but I did get the turbine working and it will produce about 10amps at 12mph wind speed. I haven't had enough wind lately to really test it. the first time I raised it the blades were terribly out of balance and it would wobble at low wind  and the guy wires were shaking too. I spent a full day balancing the blades and now it runs nicely so far but we've only had 12 to 15mph winds so far. The darn thing turns in a breeze but the cut in for power production is about 7mph.

I have a lot of reading to catch up with your gassifier progress.....

Tink

[Bob]

looking good there Tink !
I hope it does what your after!  it should as you do have it a LONG way up there !
HAHAHAHA
be sure to check the eyelets of your guy wires for ware after a month or so till you get a feel as to how badly they ware....depending on the vibration and the towers use , you can have to replace the eye's on the end of the cables once a year or in as little as 3 months,... but I had my tower up here for 25years and never wore out a single eyelet.... I completely forgot about it, never checked it and sure enough it came crashing down in a wind storm.... one of those "OH YAH...OOOPS" moments!
LOL
...
Bob....