My Version of the GEET Reactor...

[Bob]

Well I have been wondering about the Geet reactor sense I saw one in action early this summer, so after reading all I could about it, I desided to make one....
...
well I only had 3 valves,2 ball valves and one water valve but I reasoned out the unit and desided that was all I needed not the 6 or so on the Original Geet Reactor...
besides the valve my changes were instead of a screwed togather unit, I welded mine up... using a hunk of 2" pipe and large washers anda 1/2" piece of water pipe and a hunk of 3/8" re-bar that fit nicely inside the 1/2" pipe.... welded 1/2" pipe t's on each end and added 1/2" nipples to the 2" od pipe as the exhost connections and then verious fittings to attach it to a 3.5 hp Briggs and Stratton engine.
....
I contemplated not adding the rod inside the 1/2" water pipe that the hot gasses go around to heat the fuel, but I got to thinking that there may be cold spots on the intake's incomeing gas if I did...so I put the re-bar inside before I welded it all up and I am glad I did....
...
I tried running the thing on 1/2 gasoline and water....and it did run on that for about 10 minutes, but there after I could not get it to run anymore... and after it set all night the reason was obvious most of the gasoline had been used up and all of the water was still left.... so I tried another stragity <grin> this time with 100% gasoline to get it to run good... which I did and it ran for 10 to 15 min
the exhost bubbleing away in the gasoline and making fumes that the intake sucked in to be burned.
.... I had to re adjust the thing as it warmed up to get it to run smothe and it only missed a little after that, which tells me it still was not adjusted quite right....
.... but it RAN.... and ran darn good.... and the exhost pipe was hot enough to sizzle a wet finger...
so I know it reached operateing tempiture...
 so for a Stationary engine its probably a very viable way to stretch your gas consumption....
I have no idea how much gas it used as compaired to the original carberator on the O'l B&S but you can rest asured it was less because they guzzle the gas even on a good day !
....according to all I have read on vaporizeing gasoline when you heat up the intake you loose efficiency.... so power will drop, because effeciency is a product of the Heat in to the heat out...
and raising the intake temp may well streach the gasoline to double even quadroople the regular milage... but in theory the HP will drop.... however I didn't notice any slowing down of the engine as the temp increased, if anything it got faster.
...as far as Useability goes this unit is very crude, but it could be made to throttle air and incomeing heated /vaporized gasoline like a normal carberator....
 so I know know that an engine will run very well on vaporized gasoline...
as far as the Geet Clames of 50/50 gas /water mix goes well that remains to be seen.... but I expect it would just seperate the gas out of the water and then quit running <GRIN>
....
it is a hoot to play with ... a plumbers dream of carberation ! HAHAHAHAHHA
...
Bob........

[biggy boy]

Sounds like you are having too much fun Bob
What about pre heating fuel on a vehicle?

Glen

[Bob]

Howdy Glen !
 Well I have been messing with Fuel Vaporizer Systems sense the 1980's and I have Yet to get one to work properly...... but I do believe it can be done !
 At present I have a 3/8" copper coil around the exhost pipe on my Dodge 318 C.I.D pickup (0lder 1968)
and that copper tube is 15 to 20ft long !  the heat of the exhost within about 1 minute after startup
turns the gasoline into vapor in the tube, I plumb that to the intake of the cabrberator just under the air cleaner but before the carberator itself via a needle valve which I can adjust by a rod/handle through the dash....
startup is done by a seperate needle valve hooked to the fuel supply and dumped into the intake through a vacume port... just to get it to run... once running it doesn't take long at all to reach vaporization temp and I turn off the needle valve for startup. when vaporization starts up the engine smothes out and purrs like a kitten....
 HOWEVER... that is where the next problem starts...  trying to move the truck !
 giving it the throttle is really no problem as I can adjust the vapor valve as I press the accelerator
peddle.... but under a load the engine sucks in so much air that the vaporized gasoline tried to recondense back into gasoline ! so hot air at at least 110 deg. is needed to keep it in its vapor form...  that is the major problem... I made a super good hot air collector by putting 1" copper tubes around the other exhost pipe and ducting the hot air into the intake horn.... the hot air reaches about 200deg at about the same time the gas starts vaporizeing.... so I thought I had it whipped ! but NOPE!
upon moving the truck the hot air moves through so fast that the temp drops to below 90degrees alowing the gas vapor to re-condence and run too lean and it staggers all over the place....
.... at ROM above 2000RPM under a load that truck engine draws in so much air that I cannot for the life of me keep it all HOT.... that is the problem ! 
if I could keep it hot, the vaporized gasoline would net me anything between 200 to 400 MPG.... yes  !
that is not a typo... 200mpg to 400mpg is what it SHOULD do ! BUT I ain't there yet!
....
this is the reason I havn't put a Hydroxy unit on the old truck yet, its got a fuel vaporization project on it at the moment !
....
I had a hot water heated unit on a ford Pinto Years ago and the best I got with it was 80mpg but I ran into the same problem... not enough hot air....
....
some day I will get back to it and try to make a larger heat rizer for the intake and put a better valve on the vaporizer.... but moving has got in the way !
....
gasoline can expan to 16 times its volume when vaporized, it vaporizes at 110degrees(+~-) and still explodes very well, but its explosion is a bit less than that of a gasoline Mist ...oddly enough....
so the HP drop by running Vaporized gasoline is about 25%...
but the large engine in the truck can handle the HP drop and still drive easily.
.... the hardest part of working with vaporized gasoline is not getting it to the vapor form ...its KEEPING IT THERE, when mixing it with air !
....
so in reality the Geet Reactor is just another vaporizer to me, less effecient than the one on the truck by far but it does work very well on the little motor.
...
as with the Hydroxy units many safety precautions need to be taken to keep you from springing a leak and becoming a fireball !
....
Bob.....

[H²+O]

wouldn't there be a way (and I'm not saying this way is not costly) of running a larger tube (1" or 2" depending upon the air intake you need) around your muffler up to your engine then plate/sheet metal around that. right into the intake so you are getting all the heat that is produced (and not lost in the exost)
that would take some metal to be sure! might have to worry about over heating ( but you can always cut back some).

steve

[biggy boy]

Good info Bob.

I was thinking for my injection truck, more of just a gas preheater.
Wrap about 6 feet of copper tube around a piece of 2 inch pipe about 8-12 inches long.
so the copper would be coiled tight to the pipe the.
you would cut your rad hose that goes to the engine and attach the pipe to the rad hose, so that the hot engine coolant would heat the 2 inch pipe and the copper coil.
You would then cut into your gas line just before the injector headers (rails) and run the gasoline from the tank though the heated copper coil. This would preheat the gas and hopefully make the gas vaporize easier once injected into the cylinder.

It would also be a good idea as you have with a pipe coming off the exhaust area to preheat the air too.

Hey Bob for your geet.
Would adding Methyl Hydrate to the gas water mixture help keep the water mixed in with the gas, you know keep it from separating.

[Bob]

Biggy Boy:
what you discribed was almost exactly what my first one was... I got the plans from my Brother inlaw who works at Bowing Aviation in Seattle , it was a bunch of plumbing parts that hooked to the hot water of the engine.... using the hot water to vaporize the gasoline... and it worked for the guy that made the first one in Seattle way back in the 1980's he had a ford Pinto runabout just as I did so I coppied his design and although he consistantly got 80mpg I only got that one trip into Reno... I figured it was mostly the elevation ...till I discovered the recondenseing problem...
...
a 1/4" copper tube 12ft long packed tight with fine sand ( so the line won't crimp) wrapped around a 1" pipe...slid into a 2"x14" pipe with bell reducers on each end to 3/4" to plug into the heater hose.
the copper line exited through the side of the pipe and had to be soldered in place, from there a check valve on the intake side of the coil and a needle valve to control the flow out of the coil
... there were no pressure relief systems in it, yet it never blew a line !  2 rods through the dash
controled the works.... one turned  the gas off to the regular carberator, and the other one controled the needle valve....
 I did have a heat riser on the car at the time but it was not the best in the world.... had I known what I know know I would have had it working for years I am sure ! LOL !
...
it was a simple but effective hot water vaporizer... all I had to do was change the thermostat to one of 110degrees... and it worked about 50% of the time....  the guy that made his had real good luck with it ... I only got 80mpg one time in the summer with it.... but I know WHY NOW !
....
Bob.......

[Bob]

On Pre-Heating the gasoline....
if you wanted to just pre-heat the gas and get it to say 100degrees by laying a short piece of copper tubeing on the exhost manifold you could do that but chances are it would get too hot ! and vaporize the gasoline.
  This causes what us Old timers called a "Vapor lock"  where the pressure in the line backs up the gas line to the mechanical fuel pump and holds the flapper valve closed and the engine/carberator runs out of gas!.... which can be a bear to fix along side the road ! unless you know what causes it !
...cooling down the gasline will some times release the pressure enough to get the pump to pump again.
but not alwayse.... I have seen a vapor lock so bad that it destroyied the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine... it destroyied the flapper valve ! ... the cause was usually simple a person would replace the rubber line with a length of copper tubeing and it would work fine for months untill it got hot outside.... then the copper tubeing would conduct enough heat to vaporize the gas in the line , causing lots of pressure and stopping the flow of gas.... in theory this shouldn't happen because when the float drops in the carberator it would relieve the pressure completely and allow the pump to pump again... but if the flapper valve is stuck in the hole it won't ever pump again.
...
I'm thinking a coil around the heater hose would be your best bet, but that depends on a bunch of things. a real hot thermostat will raise the temp so high that even the water will be hot enough to vaporize the gas....but a lower temp thermostat should allow just a pre-heating.
... what ever you do cover the copper tubing with generous amounts of tin foil...as a insulator
to keep outside Hotter air off the line or Cold air off the line...  I learned early on that insulateing the lines is MANDINTORY ! because you can go from 120degree vapor to liquid gasoline in a mear 4 feet of copper tubing... when its not insulated !
... the question is...would pre heating the gas help at all though ?  and I think it might !
the gain in MPG will hardly be noticable but it should vaporize the gasoline better if the gas is warm rather than cold !.... then again it may get you 5mpg so who knows ! LOL
....
Carberator ICEING is a constant problem on older engines... this is because as the gasoline mist hits the air the resulting vaporization cools down the air so much that ICE forms on the outside of the carberator and intake manifold !.....  this is the kind of action I am FIGHTING with my vaporizer in my truck.... its carberator a 2bbl stormburg has Ice or frost on it even in the summer ...  that is how Much the air tempiture changes in the throat of the carberator.... and PERCISELY WHY MOST OLDER TRUCKS GOT SUCH BAD FUEL MILEAGE !....
 that truck gets 11mpg on a good day....
 However, if you heat the air that goes in the intake to say 200 degrees you could just put leaner jets in the carberator and you'ed have a good Vaporization system already !...but 200degrees may actually not be enough.... it may take 300degrees to over come the change in temp as the gasoline vaporizes....
 BUT ...if you take 300degree air down the throat of the carberator you will boil your gas in the float bowl in short order ! and with the float dropping down you will be pumping more fuel through the engine than you ever did before ... but it would run great ! a might bit rich even if its vaporized...but it would not stagger and all that it would just guzzle fuel like there is no tomorrow!
... so you see you can go too far in both directions... too much heat and your shot down, too little heat and the same thing happens, bad gas mileage....
...
 I really don't like the hand operated valve through the dash on the truck, but its the only way I know of to combat the problems that arize....  I tried a Propane carberator but the Jetting needs to be changed in order to run on vapor... and they don't have jets in that size.... so I started to make one... but gave up  ! ... but now that I have a MILL I might give it a try again ! LOL
....
Sorry for the long posts guys but explaining it in length is the best teacher I know of ! HAHAHA
...
Bob....

[Bob]

I got thinking about that Little Geet Reactor out there... and got to thinking that what it needs is a tiny carberator attached to the end of the reactor, and do away with the exhost bubbleing the gasoline
... admittedly that does away with a big part of what makes a Geet Reactor a Geet Reactor. but in my experience with running the little engine with it the exhost being used to bubble the gas is a huge waste of power, perhaps larger lines would cure that, (which I think it would) but the more you bubble the gas the harder it is for the engine to work just because of the back pressure in the exhaust system
running it at a minimal state makes the engine die because of a lack of vapors... increasing it to a good "Rolling boil" is about the only way to make enough vapor. so obviously its not making much vapor that can be burned in the engine...so either a small chainsaw carburetor or something equally small
or a different method of making the vapor is needed.
... My first thought along these lines is a small DC motor turning a disk with holes in it that is half submerged in the gas, when the motor is turned on it would spray fine droplets into the container at a massive rate....this Rich air Vapor mixture in the container can be then drawn into the intake system to be heated and vaporized even further.
and you wouldn't have the back pressure bogging down the engine as it runs.
A very small motor could be used for this and running it in a auto would be easy sense they have an electrical system. ( unlike the B&S I am playing with!)
.... after a few seconds of running the container's AIR would be so saturated with gas molecules that it would be virtually all gas vapor in itself.
 then if you draw air from that container you could have the intake (outside air) to that container go down into the gas via a hose and as it bubbles in it would be diluted with gasoline before it even reaches the container . so it would only take a few seconds for that new air to be permeated with gasoline.
...
  Ok... all this is fine and vaporizes the gasoline very well indeed, far better than a normal carburetor can... but good carburetors can achieve 95% vaporization of the fuel... a poor carburetor only 15%... so there ARE GOOD AND BAD CARBURETORS OUT THERE!
 so why not just put a good carburetor on it and be done with the problem
...
well, for one, they can't begin to meet the same vaporization.
and if Mileage has ANYTHING to do with how well the gasoline is Vaporized the best mileage will come from the best vaporizer out there.
  but that is the sticker.... if you have a carburetor that vaporizes the gasoline to 90% already
the most you can hope to gain is 10% in gas mileage... and 10% really isn't very much at all!!!!
...
 but this is the exception... IF you Expand the gasoline by vaporization to its fullest of 16 times its normal volume...  you can achieve up to 16 times the normal fuel useage....
in a normal Carberator some EXPANSION does normially take place, or in the worst case  contraction can take place ( as in the International Harvester Travelall truck 5 to 6mpg was the norm!) so it can take MORE fuel to do the same Job just depending on how the fuel is handled!
.....
Our cars now days are not concerned with any expansion of the gas before it reaches the cylinders
and that is proven by their mileage.
 there is no setups in the Injectors to expand the VOLUME of the liquid gas... just to spray it very finely...which they do very well ! ... so your gasoline can only expand from the injector down to the cylinder....through the short intake... this in essence leaves NO room for expansion at all ! so you are running off of a fuel MIST not Fuel Vapor.... and there is a big difference !
...
if the air at the intake is extremely hot it could vaporize the gasoline out to its 16 times potential,  because vaporization can take place instantly. however if this were taking place we would be seeing 20mpgx16= 320mpg all the time....but we don't
....
I remember reading a Pattent one time that was based on a old updraft Modle T ford ... the guy made a steel box and put the exhost pipe through it, in that steel box was a brass float that regulated the fuel level when cold.... once hot all the gasoline turned to vapor and the only gas that got in was when the fuel pump's back pressure allowed some fuel into the steel box.
the man got 200MPG from his Model T and got a pattent on it and tried to sell it... no car company would buy it as it would be counter productive for them sense they make money on the gas that is sold...
 it faded off into obscurity because many people tried to copy it on later modles but with no success, due to the pecularities of the old mechanical fuel pumps of the day... had they simply figured a way to Add fuel to the HOT BOX as it was dubbed later, they would have had it working!
the Up draft carberator didn't last long and the idea fell out of favor but many people tried to build them even as late as the 1950's as I saw the add in mechanic Illistrated Magizine when I was younger... "get 200+ MPG from your car...we show you how !" type thing!
...
yet all along , all it needed was a way to get fuel into that box once it got hot !
the top of the box was attached to a hose that went to the intake of the carberator and a butterfly was attached to a t in the hose to allow in fresh air.... it was simple and elegant
yet very very few people were resorcefull enough to hang in there and get it working !
....
there are ways to get Fantastic Mileage from Gasoline, but why not do away with gasoline completely and Burn Hydroxy gas instead... its far cheeper ! <GRIN>
...
Bob....

[Tink]

Bob,
Here is the photo of my engine compartment that I promised you many moons ago. Sorry I get sidelined easily 

Tink

[Bob]

HAY ! there's Tink !
OK... I drew in a MATT VALVE on your truck pic. where it should go...
the parts are a water hose and a in-line on off valve for the waterhose...
try to get a Metal valve as the plastic ones don't last too long... (mine still works!)
....
to adjust the valve after ya get it installed and the RTV Silicone (red stuff) is good and dry
shut off the valve and start the engine......then at an idle adjust it to where the engine starts slowing down...  
  this is just a peliminary setting and you will have to fine tune it better... the more you OPEN that valve the LEANER your truck engine runs..so care must be taken or you can melt your engine!
LOL  ....
I had mine adjusted a bit too lean and it staggered on steep hills, although I ran it like that for months before I noticed the staggering or missing every once in a while... and I was getting 41MPG from it with nothing else changed ! ...
after I re adjusted the valve to where it no longer staggered I am getting 32MPG most of the time...  which is a far cry from the 22~24mpg being stock !
...
you can do it !
...
bob

[Bob]

On My Old Dodge I have a Fuel Vaporizer that I made up and as I described it before there is no sense in boreing you with a repete of the same thing... as I mentioned that there was more than enough vaporized fuel to run the V8 engine the problem shifted to that of the INTAKE AIR being Hot enough to keep the fuel vaporized on its trip through the intake manifold to the cylinders
...
so I made a HEAT-rizer of all Heat-rizers ! one that should have worked in my view but STILL came up short when moving the vehicle...
 the truck has an automatic transmition and that makes for some higher RPMS just to get it to move
the torque converter grabs hold at about 2500rpm and moving the truck takes about 2800 to 3000rpm
... this is allot higher than most trucks out there I know, but short or pulling out the transmition, there is not much I can do about it LOL !
...
so  I was thinking that the 3000rpm toa max of 3500rpm would be pulling in more air in the intake than I had planned on when making the big heat rizer....thus the drop in intake air tempiture......
 but there is another aspect that I may be fighting and that is the chilling effect of the vaporized gasoline as it mixes with the air... and I am fairly certain that this is the major problem... because as the vaporized gasoline is SUCKED into the intake it is put into a vacume
and that causes it to chill very fast... but the vacume is a nessisity to the running of the engine,...
  I have contemplated rebuilding the Monster Heat Rizer into a "SUPER HEAT-RIZER" by taking it all off and remaking the copper tubes, or actually welding steel tubes to the exhost pipe
that way they can CONDUCT the heat via the metal that is part of the exhost pipe, this would transfer much more heat than copper tubing wired in a bundle around the pipe with NO real Metal attachment...   also if I remember correctly those copper tubes are about 16" long is all, and I put a Household dryer ducting tube around the pipes and plumbed that into the intake horn
...so after thinking about it I am thinking now that My Killer Heat-Rizer wasn't so good as I thought!.... I think I need a better one !
then I think it will work on 100% vaporized Gasoline... and if I can achieve that 200mpg to 400MPG should be realised. the actual MPG is impossable to predict because of all the veriables
but going from others that clamed to have achieved 100% vaporization it should be FANTASTIC Mileage!
...
So Fuel vaporization promices to get better Mileage than Hydroxy gas can give, unless you achieve 100% Hydroxy gas.... then it would be far supperior indeed !

...
Bob...

[Tink]

Bob,
Yep, that is where i thought it should go too. I'll let you know how it works!
Tink

[Bob]

Tink...
I THINK, I sacrificed a 5/8" good garden hose for the "Matt valve" I cut off BOTH ends about 2feet fron the ends and took the screw on cupplings with the hose pieces.... this made attaching to the on off ball valve child's play ! ( otherwise I would have had to silicone it all togather and worry about it ripping loose!)    I took the Snorkel completely off the truck to punch the hole in it... I started the hole with my pocket knife but wound up taking it to the drill press and used a 3/4" bit to make a cleaner hole... the other end I just took my time and did it with my pocket knife and took the air cleaner out first and made sure not to get any pieces in the Air Flow sensor thingie!.... I put the hoses only in about 1/8" and glued them 2 times as I drive on very bumpy roads most of the time... and I was going to tie down the valve so the hose can't flop around but never have got around to that part yet!
...
either that or I scrounged up one end of the hose complete with the male fitting on the end and just screwed the male end of the valve into the plastic a short way and glued it there! then ran the other end of the hose to the air cleaner box !and then screwed the male end of the hose into the female end of the ball valve.....
...well not in that order, I assembled the valve and hose then put it in and glued it and let it set over night !... damm English language anyway !  LOL ! I know what I mean anyway !
....
 you'll know it works if you can open the valve all the way and kill the engine...because it gets so lean it won't run ! ....
as I said I drove mine getting 40~42MPG for about 3 months with no trouble , but as the temp of the air rose up in early summer I started noticing a Miss every once in a while ! so I closed the valve a tiny amount and left it there and the miss went away.... now I am getting 32~34MPG
without the Hydroxy unit on the truck... so its well worth doing it !
.....
before I did this I adjusted the Air flow Sensor 2 times but it really didn't seam to change anything...it was supposed to but I couldn't tell any change to amount to anything... perhaps I got 1 or 2MPG out of the adjustment...but the big change came when Randy told me about the "Matt-Valve" and I put it on !
...
Bob.....

[Bob]

I looked under the hood of the truck to refresh my memory and I did use only one end of the garden hose, the valve is screwed into the plastic ducting a short way, and the garden hose goes to the air box...
.....
I came home with 25ft of 1/4" copper tubeing and made a coil on the 3.5hp B&S engine but can't find a suitable container for a gastank... but I'll rig something up !  HAHAHAHA
... should be an interesting test to see if I can get the little motor to run effeciently on pure Gasoline vapor.... in theory it should obviously work but proof is alwayse a good thing !
...
 this idea may make it more economical for you to run your generator all the time Tink !
....
Bob......

[HateJo]

It is so brilliant of you to do your own version of the Geet Reactor. And, if I may just say, you have what it takes to be a good inventor someday. Keep up the good work pal!  Next time I'll do my own version using 12 valves instead and let us see how will react. I'll keep you updated. 


_________________
Carbide Tooling

[Bob]

Hatejo:
 Glad to have ya aboard the forum by the way! ....What problems are you facing ? 2 heads are better than one in solving problems!....
  I havn't got back to the 3.5hp Briggs and Vaporized Gasoline yet...but will eventually I am sure!
... Right now my major project is building a woodgas generator LOL.... almost got it ready to put in the truck! HAHAHHA
... Please elaborate on your project, its alwayse good to hear other people messing about with things ! HAHAHA
Bob.......

[Bob]

Hatejo:
 My Views and explinations of whats going on in an engine are not NORMAL! ... many so called good Mechanics would beg to differ with my explinations... so use what I say as a Guide and get MORE information as well... My word is not the all and end all on the subject by any means, I have many decades of mechanicing experience under my belt,and come by my views through experience... not formal classes, although I did take auto-shop in High school and go to the Kawasaki School in Portland Or. THEORY of how the engines work never comes into it... only by years of playing around with engines and trying new things have I come up with my outlandish views! LOL
... Most Mechanics would tell you that Heating the Gasoline is the WRONG approach ! You want to COOL the gasoline instead...simply because  the Efficiency of an engine is the Temperature IN and the temperature OUT.... the wider the gap the more efficient the engine!...
 and this IS TRUE.... But Personally I could care less if the engine is efficient or not as long as I get great gas mileage ! ... but they would say that you won't get good gas mileage without an efficient engine !... and that is where I disagree !  the more efficient the engine HELPS achieve better gasoline Mileage... but its not the only thing that determines the mileage !
 the biggest thing I have found to improve Gasoline Mileage in todays trucks is the Carberation,exhaust system and the gearing........ but even that is getting dated as I grow older....
because there are no carberators on most of these trucks now days... their fuel injected!
...
but I have seen, a Ford f-100 getting 11mpg after coming from the Ford SHOP in Reno... go to 22MPG by changing the exhaust to 3" diameter and putting in a overdrive unit.... he also changed the carburetor... shortly there after and got 25MPG....  this isn't possible if you believe what they tell you at the Ford dealer !   they will tell you you NEED the back pressure in the exhaust system !
.... and that is a complete Lie. you do not need back pressure on a 4 cycle engine's exhaust...infact the bigger the exhaust the better ( to a certain point!)...but EXPERTS will try and convince you otherwise... you Must have back pressure in the exhaust system in order to be efficient!....
(and get crummy gas Mileage!<GRIN>)
 As for heating the gas/fuel the experts say that for every 10degrees above the ambient temperature (of intake air/fuel) you can loose 10% of your horsepower.... this is why they say don't heat it !
...
however...if heating my FUEL/AIR Up to 200 degrees or higher gets me 50MPG or MUCH more... what do I care if I loose 20% of the Max raited HP of the engine ?
... for the most part they are stuck on details and miss the big picture...
 Ideas and Theory abound... do your homework and don't take anyones word for it ...not even Mine ! LOL
...
Bob.......


 

[Tink]

Well said, Bob. It is so true about the temp. of the gas. When I was motorcycling around the country the machine always ran better cold and the performance went down as it heated up. But I also believe the mpg also went through the floor when it was cold too. I've seen eleraborate devices to cool the gas but it was to increase horse power, mpg was of no consern. Nowadays mpg is the focus and so we loose a bit of the performance. I know Detroit could produce a car with plenty of power and great mpg. They have been taken over by greed and the heck with anything else, now they and we are suffering.
Tink

ps. my wind turbine will be here in a few days! I'm going to use a real good paint stripper to get the paint off the box for the dump load then paint it with 1200 degree stove paint. Engine block paint only goes up to  500 degrees as I found out. What should I use to condition the metal before aplying the high temp paint?

[Bob]

High temp Primers are Non exhistant...you can't find them anywhere (I've looked)...
so just sand the surface and paint it with your high temp paint...that's all you can do.
...
I bought 2 cans of Krylon stove and BBQ paint (black,1200deg.) for my Woodgas producer... but getting the paint off that can will be near imposable so I think I will just torch it off by the burner and leave it at that!....... I could sand it off with a DA sander... but that's allot of work and I am LAZY ! LOL
...
Bob

[Bob]

Back to the Geet Reactor....
 CRB sent me a pic of the Geet reactor  so I figured I'd post it here
this is almost exactly what I built for the B&S 3.5hp
(although I welded mine up , I didn't screw it together.)
...
Bob.....

[Tink]

I went to ACE hardware and got a can of the Liquid Stripper to remove the gray paint of that main breaker box for the DC heater and it worked real good. I did a lot of scrapping with a pudy knife but I got it all off.
Tink

[Bob]

Back to the Vaporization problems....
when you put air under vacuum as in down the throat of a carburetor, the temperature drops in that air SIGNIFICANTLY... (not just a small amount!)  so if your ambient air is say 100degrees and you put it through a vacuum the air temp drops down a long way... probably close to 40 degrees at -20psi.
....
  if you've ever blown yourself off with an air-hose on a hot day you'll notice that the air the air compressor is taking in is HOT but what you feel at the air nozzle is cool.... that's because of the pressure difference... soon as the air leaves the nozzle of the air gun it expands (because it was compressed), and expanding air cools down rapidly, (not COMPRESSED AIR) because the molecules are further apart now and release their heat as they expand back into normal ambient temperatures...
....
any time you squeeze the air molecules together the temp goes up, anytime you stretch the molecules apart the temp goes down.
...
 so with the vacume of the I.C. Engine working its Magic on the air the temp alwayse drops on the intake... if you add Gasoline vapor or dropplets into the air as a Mix it drops even further.
...if some one tells you that a carberator runs the car on gasoline Vapor  they are telling you a HALF TRUTH... because gasoline does not VAPORIZE untill it reaches 110degrees in tempature. below that it is still a MIST of droplets...its not a TRUE Vapor....
... when you boil water you are turning water into Vapor by changeing its tempature... soon as the vapor cools down it reverts back to its original state of Liquid...but sense it is DISPERSED or Mixed up with so much AIR all you see is a fog, not a Liquid. that FOG is not water vapor its a Mist
...the same thing hapens to gasoline but at a lower tempature instead of the 220degrees of water turning to vapor, its only 110degrees for gasoline to change to Vapor... but the same thing happens to gasoline that happens to water when it Condenses back into its original liquid form.. because the gasoline is so spread out by the AIR, you will see a FOG not the Vapor... because te Vapor in water and Gasoline is invisable, you cannot see it, its a gas like hydrogen floating off .
...
So if we try to truly VAPORIZE the gasoline we have to raise its tempature to above 110 degrees and keep it there... that's easy to do with the exhaust heat at hand.  as a vapor gasoline is at its most explosive, and as closely packed as the molicules can be without re-condenceing back into Liquid form. HOWEVER that does not mean the engine will run on that same amount of fuel once it is turned into vapor because it expands so much that it takes much more of it to do the same thing that it used to....
...
 an experiment I played with proved that to me ... in my truck I had the vaporizer working well... it was a cold morning start-up and I fired it up and got it to idle great at 1/4 turn open on the needle valve... as the temp quickly rose higher and higher the engine started to stagger  more and more....till I had to open the valve or the engine would die... once the engine was at operateing tempature the valve had to be at almost 1/2 turn open... but the engine ran very smoothly just sitting there parked. ...I truly thought I had it beat at that point... till I tried to move the truck and all kinds of different things happened.... the higher RPM drew in more air which cooled down the intake, which had a drastic effect on the gasoline vapor... dropping the air inthe throat of the carberator to a mear 94degrees.... and the truck ran way too rich, it staggered and bucked and complained untill the heat was allowed to get above 110degrees again in the air stream of the carberator.... it would ONLY do that at IDLE...at 2500 RPM it dropped to below 100degrees...
so I found the culpret... it was tempature.
so I got to thinking what temp do I need... at the intake?  when the vacuum drops the temp so drastically, it has to be above what ever drop the vacuum does, say 40 to 50 degrees... so that means 160 degrees at a Minimum.... so I sat my sights on 200degrees because that was a nice round number and it would give me a bit of fluctuation on the colder temps as well. 
at that point I got away from the thing and haven't got back to it sense...  (LOL)
...
Now if you guys take what I learned and apply it to your tinkering you may well be the one to come up with a 200MPG car
... But Please post your experiments here so we can ALL learn !
 believe me if you try to make your Millions on vaporized gasoline you'll have a very tough time of it ... if you don't draw the attention of the Oil companies... if you do , well its been nice knowing ya ! ...
 LOL
...
Bob......

[Tink]

Bob,
I've been too busy to do much of anything lately but I did get the turbine working and it will produce about 10amps at 12mph wind speed. I haven't had enough wind lately to really test it. the first time I raised it the blades were terribly out of balance and it would wobble at low wind  and the guy wires were shaking too. I spent a full day balancing the blades and now it runs nicely so far but we've only had 12 to 15mph winds so far. The darn thing turns in a breeze but the cut in for power production is about 7mph.

I have a lot of reading to catch up with your gassifier progress.....

Tink

[Bob]

looking good there Tink !
I hope it does what your after!  it should as you do have it a LONG way up there !
HAHAHAHA
be sure to check the eyelets of your guy wires for ware after a month or so till you get a feel as to how badly they ware....depending on the vibration and the towers use , you can have to replace the eye's on the end of the cables once a year or in as little as 3 months,... but I had my tower up here for 25years and never wore out a single eyelet.... I completely forgot about it, never checked it and sure enough it came crashing down in a wind storm.... one of those "OH YAH...OOOPS" moments!
LOL
...
Bob....