biggy boy
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« on: August 07, 2009, 02:21:29 pm » |
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Hello Thought I would join the forum to learn as much as I can about what I will need to do, to get my 2001 GMC Sierra 4.8 working properly. I only have the bubbler made so far, But I have been reading and reading for several weeks. I have picked the cell design a Tero cell. I just need to figure out what I will need other then a O2 sensor EFIE to get it to work!
Glen
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2001 GMC Sierra 4.8 V8
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Tink
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« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2009, 10:16:50 pm » |
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Biggy Boy, Welcome to the fourm! The Tero Cell is the right choice. I'm playing with a Smack Booster design on the Tero Cell and I'm impressed. I did burn it up by trying to pump too many amps throught it and am in the process of rebuilding it. Bob and i have both used the old Smack Booster design with wall plates and I don't want to go back to that ever again, It overheats too much. My problem on the Touota 4 banger '89 vintage is overcoming the computer. I think from what I've been reading it may be easier with the newer vehicles. Good luck, Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
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Tink
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« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2009, 08:51:18 pm » |
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I do like the design but be careful not to run it more than about 16 to 18 amps because it will overheat. I was getting 1 and 1/2 LPM at 18 amps and should have left it there. I figure I'll need two of them in my little 2.4RE Toyota 4 banger. I was toying with the idea of runing two batteries and a bigger alternator to hopefully get 40 or more mpg. I really need to get power to them away from the engine though. The bubbler is not big enough either. Other than that it is promising. There are so many units out there that are total rip-offs. Smack seams to be ligit. Bob has some great info about how much HHO will be needed for various senarios. Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
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biggy boy
Newbie

Posts: 22
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« Reply #4 on: August 10, 2009, 06:58:58 pm » |
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Oh so you have built on like the BB smack ok good to know. About needing three or more. there sure is conflicting info on the net some forums say you need lots 1lpm per LTR motor size. IE: my 4.8 ltr motor would need 4LMP of HHO? Others say you don't need much to get improvments. I guess the only way to know for sure is to try.
So what cells produce more then 1.5LPM then and don't get hot. By the way the one I'm building right now the plate size is 8 inch by 10 inch, not 6 inch by 6 inch like the BB smack. Also I will be using PWM to run it they claim that keep the amps and heat down.
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2001 GMC Sierra 4.8 V8
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Bob
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« Reply #5 on: August 11, 2009, 01:30:42 am » |
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Howdy Biggy Boy ! sorry for the delayed welcome, but definately Welcome to the forum ! <GRIN> there is a direct corolation between how much Hydroxy gas you inject into the engine and How much you can reduce the gasoline intake... you can simply add a Hydroxy cell under the hood that puts out 2LPM and get fair improvements in gas milage simply because the Hydroxy gas helps the engine burn the gasoline up so much better than without it !.... but if you intend to go for higher gas milage then you must start thinking on REPLACEING the gasoline you are useing with Hydroxy gas instead.... and that gets into very large amounts of Hydroxy gas fast! ..... you have a large engine... and that in itself demands more Hydroxy gas.... although I like the 2LPM output per 1 Liter of eng. displacement I admit that is a Huge amount of hydroxy gas to try and come up with ! especially on a 4.5liter engine! however if you can achieve such output you should be able to realise 75 to 80MPG in that truck if you cut the gasoline back accordingly... What most people are missing by adding the Hydroxy gas to the engine is that they MUST cut back on the gasoline or they will NOT see any improvement at all ! although the engine will run crisper and smother your gasmilage will remain the same as it alwayse was....and that is not what you are after! ... Hydrotech, a friend of mine made a trio of hydroxy generators that put out 8LPM to 10LPM at engine idle however his gas mileage only went up to about 20mpg at first,...from 11mpg thats not too bad but he had a better idea, and that proved to be true, he went through the fuel system on his truck and made extensive changes and leaned the engine out soo extreamily lean that it would barely run without the hydroxy gas being added, it bucked and fumed and farted realy bad because it was so lean, however as soon as he turned on the Hydroxy generators it cleared up and purred like a Kitten....( the Hydroxy gas made up for the lack of gasoline!) his truck was a big duely Dodge if I remember correctly and he achieved 75mpg with that truck.... that man is Addimate about one thing and that is if you don't reduce fuel to the engine you will NOT see any improvements..... and I agree with him 100% his continued work on his truck has earned him a reputation in his home town and his fame is driving him nuts ! LOL he swares by the tube cell design and doesn't care that much for the plate type cells at all... ...at last check he was getting around 80mpg in his monster truck and was running 12LPM into it he is also working on 99% hydroxy gas Not quite 100% as he feels the engine needs the gasoline. .... this is from Memory and My memory isn't very good at times so take it with a grain of salt. but it shows you how extream you can go with this stuff.... ... the best results I have seen are on carberated engines, simply because they are easy to control the fuel into the engine... fuel injected engines on the other hand are a constant fight!... unfortionately... each fuel injection system is a bit different and what works on a ford doesn't work on a dodge and all that.... even when you find a system that works on one type, the year it was made makes all the difference in the world.... so not only is it a Brand, Year,Modle and Color problem but the auto manifacturers have a tennancy not to give you good information on the Modification of the fuel injection system.... mainly because its against the law here in California ! I was told by the guy that did my SMOGG Check that it was a good thing that I removed the Hydroxy unit before I came in because he could not pass it because it was "MODIFIED" ... ... I installed a Hydroxy cell consisting of 3 "Randy Cells" in series and at first it put out about 2LPM at about 25 to 30amps... I installed a bubbler and pop off caps and got close to 35 to 40 mpg just with that.... the cell got dirty and the output dropped and so did my MPG...I did some changes and added a "Matt Valve" to lean out the gasoline and although my output on the cells had dropped to about 1LPM I got 40 to 45MPG in my 2.4Ltr R22FE Toyota pickup... the hydroxy cell continued to drop in output so I removed it for the winter... Supprizeingly enough my gasmilage dropped for a few days but came back up and I am getting a consistant 32MPG with just the "Matt Valve" installed and nothing else. I was getting 40mpg with the Matt Valve alone but the engine was missing and I feared a melted piston so I increased the fuel till the missing went away... and that ofcorse dropped my gasmilage <GRIN> I havn't got the time to build another cell now but I did find allot of my parts I had misplaced in our Move from the mountian top to the valley ! ....so I am getting ready to give it a go again. ... I love the "Randy CELL" its cheep to make , compact and small and a single cell will put out 2LPM at 20 amps ... and that kind of output is hard to beat ! ...
Be aware that adding AMPS to a cell may well increase the Output but it also increases the heat the cell generates... ... Keep in mind if you want large outputs you will have to give it Large AMPS....there is no free lunch. My goal was to get my toyota truck to run on 100% hydroxy gas by the end of summer, well that won't happen because I had to move , but perhaps by spring I can do it... hard to say. however I may not go 100% , but keep the engine idleing on gasoline anything above idle would be Hydroxy gas.... at least thats the plan... but it will take about 15 to 20LPM to do that... but I an sick of paying $3.00 a gallon of gasoline ! ... Bob.....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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biggy boy
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« Reply #6 on: August 11, 2009, 06:52:29 am » |
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Hi Bob Thanks for the welcome and thanks for taking the time to post this information!! I've been doing tons of reading on HHO but every bit helps. I'll see what I can find as far as info on the Randy Cell.
So far I have a bubbler made and the plates rough cut out. Have the gasket material. I have enough plates to make a 21 cell.
I have the circuit board designed and laid out to make the PWM, I'm ready to print and then etch the board. Making electronic circuit boards and little projects in one of my hobbies. I make my own guitar effect pedals.
Glen
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« Last Edit: August 11, 2009, 07:12:30 am by biggy boy »
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Bob
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« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2009, 05:14:23 pm » |
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Info on the "Randy Cell" is here in the Plans section... its a one page type plan, very simple but effective . Randy made 6 of the little cells and is running them in his 4x4 truck and has had good luck with them using Lemonaid as a electrolyte ! He is a Success story! I don't remember what kind of gas Mileage he is getting at the moment, if I recall correctly it was close to 50mpg... but I'm uncertain of that. His truck is a Carberated 2.5liter GMC if I remember right and has made leeps and bounds on his Hydroxy unit in improvements and in all around workings. I have learned a bunch from that man ! his cousin Matt came up with the "Matt Valve" for his R22 Toyota Pickup and I use it on my truck as well and am trying to get Tink to put one on his truck ! .... the "Randy Cell" is a bit difficult to make because of the extreamily close spaceings and close tollerances but I managed to make 4 cells so I know it can be done. ...On the other hand , sense you have the plates for a Dry cell you just as well make that ! ... the question is How many plates is going to be best for your use... and that depends on the amount of Amperage you plan to give it in operation. you see the more plate area the more amperage you will need to make it work properly at peek output... so if you put all 21 plates in the cell you may need Hundreds of amps to get the "Amps per Square Inch" High enough to reach a good output level for the cell. I have discussed this verious times on this forum with others, and am certain now that the theory is correct... there is more to slapping a bunch of plates togather to make a good working cell ....but not that much more ! <GRIN> ... Bob......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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Manta
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« Reply #8 on: August 13, 2009, 02:57:48 pm » |
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.....from 11mpg thats not too bad ....
...and he achieved 75mpg with that truck..
Bob, over 600% increase ?
Manta
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Good questions have a sting in the tail.
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Bob
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« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2009, 01:25:49 am » |
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hehe yah ! and whats better than that, is he installed a switch to turn off all gasoline to the engine and he actually drove it to the end of the block and back on Hydroxy gas alone... he said it was running like Shit but it did get him down there and back... it was running way too lean, not enough Hydroxy gas however it did run and Drive that big huge truck... I think he mentioned on one of his emails that he was working on another tube cell and was planning on getting 20LPM from it and when that happens he will use gasoline to start and idle the engine only, that way the problems of Hydrogen hardening will be elimiated or at least reduced to a very small amount. .... its realy simple in consept, and I don't understand why people have a problem with it... Hydroxy gas explodes very well.... if we use it instead of gasoline vapor to explode in the cylinders we can run our autos on Hydroxy gas INSTEAD of gasoline... ..... it sounds simple... but in reality its allot harder than it sounds. but it can be done... other people have done it already.... I know of 4 people that have clamed to run there cars/trucks on Browns gas alone... The problem is getting that much VOLUME ! most American Cars have Rather LARGE engines being Large means allot more Gas is needed to run them. I have calculated that 15 to 20LPM will allow me to run my R22 Toyota Pickup on Hydroxy gas alone with No gasoline at all.... and I have raised that from 10LPM just to be safe ! <GRIN> but look at it this way... a "Randy Cell" puts out 2LPM at 20 amps to get 20LPM I need 10 such cells to power those 10 cells I need 200amps.... 10 cells is do-able! 200amps is Do-able ! but the Trick is in the details of the hookup.... ... can my truck power all 10 cells ... absoultly ! ... because it can turn a 300amp altenator with no problem and still be driveable too.... I don't care if the Science Grurues say you can't generate enough gas to power the engine.... their Dead Wrong... my Math figures prove it !... ... I'ed rather get 20LPM from 2 cells or 4 cells rather than 10.... but we have the technology to do it right now! the question is how bad do you want to say so-long to the gas-pumps? if you want it bad enough you can do it with a bunch of small cells ,and a Large Alternator. ... My Plan is to make as few of cells as nessarry mainly because there is upkeep to a Hydroxy cell and the more you have the more upkeep there is. I am hoping to make a cell that will put out 5LPM at 50amps.... then make 4 of them feed a small pressure tank ( with a explosive pressure relief valve on it!) and feed the engine through a simple ball valve attached to the throttle... the Hydroxy generators will all be attached to a pressure regulator switch... which turns them on and off, 2 switches, 2 generators per switch all feeding the pressure tank. the fine details of Idling on gasoline and when to shut off the gasoline and all that need to be worked out yet...but it shouldn't be very hard... so technically my truck won't be 100% running on Hydroxy gas but as close to it as I care to go! it should have unlimited mileage on Hydroxy gas. only needing electrolyte top offs every day or so. and 12 gal of gasoline will allow my truck to run for months at idle , I'm fairly sure on that!<GRIN> ... my gasoline bill will drop siverly but Distilled,Deminerilized water will take its place in the form of about $1.29 a gallon and then I will be comparing my Miles per gallon of WATER ! not Gasoline! ...and I hope to use Lemmonaid instead of KOH... but that remains to be seen !...I kind'a doubt I can draw more than 40 amps using Koolaid! ...so I may have to use KOH. .... thats my plan the question is ...can I do it ! ... Bob.......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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Bob
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« Reply #10 on: August 14, 2009, 08:46:27 am » |
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Biggy boy... er what ever it is hehehe. 8x10=80sqr inches each plate (counting only one side) if you go for .25 amps per square inch, thats 80x.25=20 amps PER PLATE ! HOWEVER... most people don't run that much amperage,... by a long shot if the "Randy cell" has 70square inches in it and powered with 20 amps gives 2LPM that gives us a good solid starting place to calculate from. 20amps devided into 70 square inches is 0.2857 or .285 APSI if we shoot for .285APSI on your plates at 80square inches per plate 11 plates make 880 square inches....880x.285=250.8 amps to reach the same output per square inch as that of the Randy cell obviously thats a bunch of amps and I doubt you'ed want to run that much but if you did and all things were perfect and you had the same output per square inch as that of the "Randy cell" you'ed have an output of over 25LPM((2/70=.0285output per square inch)(.0285x880=25.+)) ...unfortionately figures like this rarely hold up in a solid test and it would more than likely be closer to 20LPM at 250amps... pound for pound not very efficient! ...but if you reduced the plates to only 5 plates beginning and ending with a negitive plate you'ed have 5x80=400sqrin. that fed with 0.285APSI should cost you 114amps at 11.4LPM where you will fail in reaching these figures is at feeding the plates that MUCH amperage! for one its almost impossable to get more than 50 or 60 amps useing even the strongest electrolyte so you can't give it that much amperage even if you wanted to. so even at HALF the amps you'll have Half the output.... and that would put you right in line with everyone else out there. .... you can Add more plates and raise the amperage draw that way but in so doing you lower the APSI which you don't want to do... you can make the plates real close togather and that will help but only to a small degree... so your delima is adding more plates and running a much lower APSI and take what it puts out which is what most guys have done... and the output is extreamily LOW per plate area as compaired to the "Randy Cell" which is ok...as long as it works for you ! ....A few guys have achieved a ratio of 1LPM per 10amps.... infact that is what I call the guage of a good cell.... 2LPM at 20amps is great output...but as you raise the amps the output doesn't increase right along with it.... it trails behind further and further the higher in amps you go. thats why 4LPM at 40amps is almost unhurd of its more like 4LPM at 48~50amps. ... the DOWN SIDE to this "Running High Amperage" is the generated HEAT... you can easily amagon that you can boil the water in the generator quite easily at those amps... ...thats where the "Randy cell" really shines ...it can Run all day at 20 amps and only be tepid temp to the touch...give it More amperage and all bets are off as the heat really climbs fast! .... So the Key to any cell is having a good cooling system weather that is a big container to put your little cell in ( so its got allot of water to cool it down) or a circulating system with pumps and a Stainless steel radiator to cool down the electrolyte.... cooling is very important. .... if it were me I'ed make a 5 plate dry cell out of those plates and feed it as much amps as I could without hurting my truck.... 40 or 50 amps and measure the output and see what I got .... I'ed make a recurculateing bubbler/container to increase the cooling capasity. (along with a good bubbler!) and use heavy wiring... probably #4 or #6 wire ... and once you get one working make another, and another and another... till you can boast your truck gets the best gasmilage in the state ! LOL ! .... hope that helps Bob....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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biggy boy
Newbie

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« Reply #11 on: August 14, 2009, 08:51:39 pm » |
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Good info Bob. I had a brain wave last night or was it an Epiphany LOL.
Keep the plates the same size 8 inch by 10 inch, but make the gaskets say 6 inch by 8 inch then when all the plates a sandwiched together there would be the plates hanging out past the gaskets acting as cooling fins all the way around. it would help to dissipate heat. The setup I will be using is + n n n n n - two of them in parallel. I don't want to run more then 30 amps total.
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2001 GMC Sierra 4.8 V8
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Manta
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« Reply #12 on: August 15, 2009, 06:05:28 am » |
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Biggy Boy, Interesting concept. Just make sure you don't get any shorts across the external plates.
Bob,
If you were to use this huge cell output just to run the engine that generates the hydroxy and not to move the truck about, it seems to me that you would be making much more gas than you would need to run the cells, even allowing for the alternator draw.
Doesn't this verge into perpetual motion territory.
Manta
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Good questions have a sting in the tail.
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biggy boy
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« Reply #13 on: August 15, 2009, 08:30:59 am » |
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Biggy Boy, Interesting concept. Just make sure you don't get any shorts across the external plates.
Yes that would need to be addressed for sure. The two ends that sandwich the plates together 1/4 inch PVC sheets would be bigger then the steel plates overhanging them. A person could put some mesh screen around the outer perimeter of the PVC plate to keep conductive objects from shorting out the plates. the mesh would still allow air flow.
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2001 GMC Sierra 4.8 V8
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Tink
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« Reply #14 on: August 15, 2009, 08:42:31 am » |
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I really like the idea of fins. I missed out on a great opportunity the other day at Wal Mart. They replaced all the 1/4" PVC on 3 big doors and I didn't get with the maintance guy in time to grab it before he threw it all in the compactor. We could have all had enough PVC to make Tero cells for ever! Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
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biggy boy
Newbie

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« Reply #15 on: August 15, 2009, 11:51:30 am » |
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I really like the idea of fins. I missed out on a great opportunity the other day at Wal Mart. They replaced all the 1/4" PVC on 3 big doors and I didn't get with the maintance guy in time to grab it before he threw it all in the compactor. We could have all had enough PVC to make Tero cells for ever! Tink
Bummer  Do you think a teflon cutting board would work for ends?
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Tink
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« Reply #16 on: August 15, 2009, 09:47:14 pm » |
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I think any plastic that would stand up to moderate heat would surfice. Just to be safe I'd use something that would not melt, worp or shrink at 200 degrees sustanined heat.
Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
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Tink
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« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2009, 09:48:42 pm » |
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Some of us have been known to melt Sch 40 PCV with these hho generators
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
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Bob
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« Reply #18 on: August 15, 2009, 11:30:02 pm » |
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Manta: Technically No...because Perpetual motion can't have a fuel that it can run out of, and if the cell runs out of water everything stops. ... I am Skeptical that it will work as I plan as well, but the figures tell me it will work and to me that makes it worth trying ! it wouldn't be the first time the figures Lied to me , I made a Centrifical engine one time that should have been able to lift itself off the ground with centrifical force alone, but hidden in the mechinisum was a equil and oppisit reaction that I didn't see the end results were supprizeing...it just set there spinning.... the pull it did generate was so small that I gave up on the mechanical version and will try Hydrolics later ! ... you can Only be Positive about a consept when you are Positive that you have considered ALL aspects of the device.... and at this point I am only Purdy sure I have ! LOL ... Biggy Boy: the cooling fin idea is a good one ! I also have designed a few generators useing the same idea, and I believe it will work to your advantage when its in operation.... the problem is your electrical hookup... Many people use the Neutral plate method with good results, but I don't like that method at all, as to me its wastfull. it is much easier to do however... but you have problems of current leakage which can result in a major loss in output. In a dry cell design such as you described, you will need holes in the cornor of your plates inside the gasket area in order to allow the gas to escape as well as a hole in the oppisit cornor to allow fresh electrilyte to enter between the plates.... this will be the source of the current leakage and there is no way around it...that I know of. .... I have used Plexy Glass for end caps on cells but with vering results... they break quite easy and need more holes in the metal to spred out the pressure and they will melt if the temp gets too high. the cutting board I think is a good idea if you keep the heat down but do yourself a favor and plan on 6 or 8 bolts to hold the thing togather not just 4... (you can insulate the bolt from the plates with a short length of vinal gasline over the bolt, and incert it through the hole that way.) .... As Tink says you can melt plastic... just about any Kind of plastic, because the heat gets so high on these things... so expect High heat, and Plan on a good cooling system and you should have no problems !
..... Bob......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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Bob
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« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2009, 11:42:15 pm » |
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Biggy Boy: Also a word of advice... Orentent your cell to where it sets with the corners up and down... not horizontal ...that way the gas can escape without having to "Find its way out".... in other words... if its square , instead of setting it FLAT set it on a peek of its corner... that way the corner that is up can have a hole in the plate to let the gas escape and one in the bottom to let the water come in... this is allot better than having all your plates setting in a BUBBLE of gas on one side because the cell is setting horizontally. if you set your cell horizontally you can loose as much plate area on every plate as it takes the bubble to build up and go out the holes.... standing the cell on its corner cures this problem. ... even tilting the cell a bit will help that aspect a great deal. ... Bob.....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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biggy boy
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« Reply #20 on: August 16, 2009, 11:55:52 am » |
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In a dry cell design such as you described, you will need holes in the cornor of your plates inside the gasket area in order to allow the gas to escape as well as a hole in the oppisit cornor to allow fresh electrilyte to enter between the plates.... this will be the source of the current leakage and there is no way around it...that I know of. Bob the BB smack design does not use the holes through the plates at the bottom to equalize the fluid level so there is no current leakage. the cells are totally isolated from one and other. He uses an ingenious design to fill the individual cells and another simple method to balance the fluid level in the individual cells. If you watch his youtube videos he explains how it works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyMA7x2wfV0&feature=PlayList&p=AFE0C21ED792D60B&index=0&playnext=1and then watch his videos on how to build the cells he shows you how to make the filling and leveling, parts very cool!
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2001 GMC Sierra 4.8 V8
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Bob
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« Reply #21 on: August 16, 2009, 02:55:13 pm » |
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Biggy Boy: ... Ok so no holes in the plates... but if the electrolyte can touch all the plates at once you will still have a current leakage...as I said there is no way around it because the electrolyte is what causes the current leakage...unless you had 7 seperate containers supplying each seperation between the plates... you can't fool the electricity to go in only one direction... it will flow any way it can...when your using a medium like electrolyte. ... Sorry I can't watch the you-tube video on my super slow Dial-up connection...but I'll take your word for it.... I asume he made some connection outside the plates for the electrolyte to flow in instead of having holes in the plates... but it amounts to the same thing.... what causes the current leakage is the Electrolyte's continuity... the same thing that makes a cell work, also makes it work against itself...there is a small amount of electrical energy that is consumed by the resistance through the electrolyte... this is what causes heat in a cell but the major heat is made by the plates and their function of generating the gas. these 2 things comprise the total heat in a Hydroxy cell not counting resistance which is always a factor in any electrical curcuit. ... Build your cell Man... time is a'wasteing! even if you get it wrong, you will have learned what NOT to do ! <GRIN>
You can do it !
Bob......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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Bob
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« Reply #22 on: August 17, 2009, 12:19:36 pm » |
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Incedently, Bob Boyce made a huge cell that had 101 plates each plate was seperated from the next one via the tight fitting case... and if the top edge of the plates were cept above the water level there can be no current leakage in that cell, although he had to regulate the liquid between the plates carefully it can be done... but I believe he wound up just letting the electrolyte flow over the top of the plates so they were all easier to keep full... sense he had so many plates he needed to feed the cell with more voltage and amps and wound up feeding it with a 220 AC/DC inverter and feeding the cell with 220vdc.... his output was Astronimical ! at 54LPM if memory serves me correctly... that is the highest output I have hurd of for a Plate type cell ....SO high output can be achieved! .... for all intense and purposes you can really disregard the current leakage problem. well, at least I do ...simply because I favor the "Cell in a dip" method of cell design, where a cell is setting in a container of Electrolyte and is surrounded by the electrolyte on all sides.... obviously current leakage will be more prone in such a design as compaired to a Dry cell....but even at that it is nonimal... so I don't even worry about it ! HAHAHAHA I figure the greater cooling ability of a "Cell in a Dip" design makes up for the Current leakage problem. However you can make a recirculating system for your Dry cell quite easily by having a container of electrolyte hooked to the intake and output ports of the cell and have the Intake higher than the output.... as the gasses flow out of the cell into the container they suck in fresh electrolyte to replace the expelled gas... in essence making a pump to circulate the electrolyte.... this method is called the "Flooded Tero-cell" Method , a fella' designed it and I thought it such a good addition to ANY Tero-Cell that I dubbed it the "Flooded tero-Cell design" along with its maker. a few of my designs have the recirculation tank with them in the designs section so you can look and understand how it works easy. ... Limmiting your Amp draw to 30 amps is going to limit your output to about 2.5LPM at max if everything works out perfectly.... because your LPM output is directly connected to the Amps you use. running such a big cell as you plan to make at 30 amps your output will probly be closer to 1.75LPM or 2LPM because of the LOWER AMPS PER SQUARE INCH of plate area.... so you can see the importance of keeping your plate area down ...especially if you are limited in the amount of amps you can use. .... a quick for instance: I made a cell that had something like 24 plates (normal steel!) and had them at 1/16" spacing and I expected Huge amounts of gas from the cell... I hooked it up and I got 1/4LPM at 20 amps ! so I figured that the plate area may be TOO MUCH, so I took off 4 plates and tried it again...and got 3/4LPM at 20 amps.... this got me to thinking that I could tune the cell to max output by removing plates until the LPM drops... and then back up to the last plate number... which I did... I wound up with 6 plates I think at 2LPM at 20 amps.... and that was peek output... I could not get any more output no matter what I did.... except increase the amperage I increased the amperage and had to do all that plate swapping all over again...and wound up with 4LPM but the amps were at 50amps so pound for pound I was loosing efficiency by going bigger/more plates. that cell was an experiment made from electrical box covers with the cornors trimmed off so they would fit in a 4" ABS pipe... I still have it although I put all 24 plates back on it and Hooked it to my welder to see what it would do ! ...I blew the curcuit breaker to the house before I got a LPM reading but it was really putting out the Hydroxy gas ! LOL ! .... one of those standing in the pitch blackness moments .....saying....ummmm OOPS ! HAHAHAHAHA
... Bob.
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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biggy boy
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« Reply #23 on: August 18, 2009, 08:20:37 pm » |
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The BB Stack cell that I'm making: The BB stands for Bob Boyce, because he was the original designer of this type of cell. It's also known as a tero cell. I can control the wetted plate area (sq inches) by the fluid level in the cells. As you have stated with only holes near the top of the plate. If the fluid level is kept down you will not have any fluid crossing between the cells. Time will tell how it all works out, the experimenting is the fun part for me. I'll be able to control the amp draw with the PWM I'm making. Have all the components now. I just need to get around to etching the circuit board I designed.
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Bob
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« Reply #24 on: August 19, 2009, 05:41:08 am » |
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Biggy Boy: I hope when making your PWM you make it to handle as many amps as you can.... like don't stop at 30 amps... shoot for 80 to 100amps if at all possable. the reason I say this is easy to see, because as you progress in building your cells you will more than likely find the need to draw more and more amperage. because of adding more and more cells or just simply powering the cell with more and more amperage. .... Sense my Eyesight is so poor and I havn't been able to afford glasses in 15 years I havn't set down to build a PWM myself <GRIN>.... I really like the simplicity of the 555 timer used to make a PWM and then just "crow-bar" a bunch of heavy transisters to handle the high amps. but I am not an Electronics expert by any means, just a Ham that dabbles in electronics every once in a while hehehe, so I don't know if that is a better way to go or not. ... I am sure you will get it working, good or bad, and then improve upon it from there ! the experimenting part is what is the most fun for me as well.... to see what it does, and understand why it does what it does, when it does something unexpected !!!!! .... I have discovered that over the 10 or so cells I have made to date that the design is not so important as the execution of making it. which means to me, that how ever you get the metal in the Electrolyte isn't so important as its spacing and consistency in spacing, and the way it gets power to the plates. ....however there are others out there that would differ with me on that subject... John swares by the tube cell aproach... with good reason shown in his results, and others like the Dry cell approach, and some still would rather have the "Cell in a Dip" for verious reasons. .... what I'm saying here is about the best you can hope for in cell output is 1LPM per 10 amps of power and that is MAXIMUM output that you can expect...in other words 20 amps would get you 2LPM, 40amps=4LPM ...but anywhere even near these figures...is considered really good output, and oddly enough I have seen this kind of output from just about any cell configuration... so the Design becomes less important ....so.... if its not the cells design that makes the output...then what is it ? Hydroxy gas generation is a mathematical function of whetted plate area,Amperage used,and electrolyte continuity. Minus all the resistances found in the circuit..... this means that if you take a two, 1"square plates and feed them with 1 amp you will always get the same output, no matter HOW they are placed next to each other... the only thing that effects their output is their proximity to each other...the closer they are the more they produce. (but they cannot touch).(this correlates to the Electrolytes continuity, the closer the plates are the more continuity they have.) so if you can build a cell with hardly any RESISTANCES in the circuit, chances are you will have a really good performer.... ... this leads me to believe that Any stack of plates that are say 1/32"~1/16" apart will be a good producer as long as your using enough amps to get the AMPS per square inch up high enough to produce well. ...HOWEVER... this isn't always true in cell design because there are different methods of getting power to the plates... the Neutral Plate method does work, and work quite well if you use a Max concentration of electrolyte.... this demands a PWM to control the amps used, but it works ! ...however if you don't use a Max concentration of electrolyte, the Neutral plate method starts to fall on its face real fast (at least that is my observation! FWIW) because the resistance of the electrolyte hampers the excitation of the neutral plates. but in ANY cell, the lower the resistance to the flow of the electricity the better off you are... so use large wires to connect to the cell and to connect to the powered plates....about 2 times as big as you think you need is a good rule of thumb ! LOL ! .... another thing.... using the Neutral Plate design DEMANDS High quality Stainless steel for plates ! metal that is NON magnetic... and some of the cheaper Stainless steel is some what magnetic and not very good for neutral plate designed cells. this isn't as important in parallel wired plates because each plate is hard wired to its power. and cheaper metal can be used and still have good results... .... Obviously Stainless steel isn't a very good conductor, not like copper or Gold, but it resists corsion very well and in electrolysis this is very important... its the "Lesser of evils " routine... if we use copper sheets it gums up within seconds... so Stainless steel is a far better choice,even though it adds resistance to the circuit! .... ...FWIW ... Bob.
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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biggy boy
Newbie

Posts: 22
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« Reply #25 on: August 19, 2009, 06:52:34 am » |
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Thanks Bob for the input, I always enjoy learning  The gasket I'm using is 1/6 inch the cables to the cell and jumpers are # 6 The PMW will be using two 30 amp continues rated Power N Chanel Mosfets, for a combined 60 amp capability. I was hoping to get 50 amp rated Mosfets but the supplier didn't stock them 
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Manta
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« Reply #26 on: August 19, 2009, 10:14:42 am » |
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Bob,
S'pose you were running your engine as a static unit. To drive a generator maybe.
And you were to add a condenser to the end of the exhaust stack. How much water do you think you would get back ?
And if you were to put that water back in the cell.....
Manta
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Good questions have a sting in the tail.
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Bob
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« Reply #27 on: August 20, 2009, 08:08:13 am » |
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Hi Manta ! I answered this once ... but it got lost in the eather I guess ! HAHAHAH well, you'ed not get enough water back by condenceing the exhost to make up for what you use. your removeing allot of hydrogen and oxygen and burning it and that portion is gone...used up its no longer even in a vapor form... at least that is how I understand it... I don't think burning Hydroxy gas will give you much water vapor out the exhost either, its the Hydrocarbons in gasoline, that give you the water out the exhost pipe.... but be that as it may ,water is very easy to come by on this planet. adding a small amount every other day is child's play when it comes to tanking up with gasoline!. .... I don't actually know what happens to the Hydrogen and oxygen molecules when they are burned I assume they are separated into their original states without the atomic bond and float as free atoms there after... I am not sure if the atom itself is destroyed in the process or not...but I don't think so.... this is another case of too many questions and not enough answers for me ! LOL .... I don't have all the answers by any means, I am learning just like everyone else here HAHAHA .... Bob.....
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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