I wonder....

[Bob]

Hay guys !
 I took down my CB "Starduster" antenna and brought it down the mountian last night
I got to looking at it and was wondering if it could be lengthened out to be usefull on 20mtrs ... 10mtrs is easy I'm sure but those are lousie bands as far as I am concerned... I prefure 40 and 80meters and I am sure the only way a Starduster antenna would work on either of those bands is with some huge Loading coils ...
....
I made a cornor reflector one time and wound up useing it on my TV instead of 2mtrs
it was supposed to have 12DB gain and a front to back ratio that was un believable
but I tried it on my TV and got better reception than with the $300 tv antenna and amplifier...so I kept useing it LOL
...
the reason I bring it up is I need a good antenna here for my Cell phones we are lucky to get 1 bar of reception here and I was thinking that a cornor reflector or Plane reflector would probably be the answer... but I am not sure about the frequancys  850mhz I think but not positive... anyone ever make a cell phone antenna ?  I mean a serious one that works not a pringles can with a 1" wire as a radiator LOL...
I looked on the web about antennas for mobile and base cell phone useage and $650.00 is a might bit rediculas for the antenna and base amp... Plus you have to pay an extra fee to use it.... and all I want is better reception is all. !
...
if I had good reception here I might could go wireless web connection... I dunno
but anything would beat the dial up at this location ! UGH!
I have to dial at least 4 times to get a 40kbd connection, the first dial is 26.5kbd, 2nd is 28.5kbd and 3rd is 38.8kbd and the 4th usually will get me 40.0kbd
....but its never in that order its a roll of the dice !
it drives me NUTS !
LOL
...
anyway...anyone got any plans for a cell phone antenna ?
...
Bob........

[Tink]

I have a spare Wilson Yagi you are welcom to. Only problem is you need to make a connection for it. Corrosion got to it a few years ago and I gave up on trying to find the correct connection. It seams Wilson did a propiritory wire from the antenna to the 'N' connector. I gave up and got a new antenna, just didn't have time to fool with it. It's for 806-900mhz If yo have Verison you'll be able to use it. I get a signal outside but in the house it's sketchy and I have to plug in the antenna that I have mounted 20 feet up outside my window. Here is a link to the specs:

http://www.wilsonelectronics.com//ViewProductB.php?ID=13

It's yours if you can use it.
Tink

[Bob]

Oh,Oh ! Yah buddy ! thats what I was looking fer !
I'll make it work if I have to machine a new part !
what would shipping with UPS cost fer that thing ...got any idea ?
I'll send ya the bucks if ya can find a box ! LOL
...
Bob...

[Tink]

Bob,
Don't worry about the shipping I'll send it to you, it's the least I can do in return for all you do for us in maintaining this fourm. Email me your shipping address.
Tink

[ic-738]

I built a 4 element quilbilcle quad for cell one time but it did not seem to help.  Same here on the cell signal.  Also don't knock the cantenna's, I built one for wireless,(which btw cell I think is around 900 megs which would require more than 1 inch), but I lhacked up the circuit board for my wireless thumb card and made a cantenna, I then compared it to my neighbors, and got twice the signal.  Since then I took a direct tv dish and mounted the cantenna on the dish, putting it at the focal point of the dish, I not retested it yet, but it should give me more gain,
Mike,
AB2DF.

[Bob]

Check yur email Tink !
...
Yah I have 2 or 3 sat tv dishes outside I bet I could modify one of them to operate
for a cell phone....
...
I know that the voice and data  are seperate areas on the band on cell phones
I mostly use texting... almost totally infact.. ( as if its a supprize!)
but where that is on the band segment... I have no idea !
...
Bob.......

[Bob]

Hay Tink !
any idea what the impedance on that antenna ?
...I'm guessing at 50ohms but I really have no idea.
I'm just getting into cell phones and they are allot of fun  ! but I've only had mine for about 6 months now... I know enough about cell phones to be dangerous and thats about all ! HAHAHAHAHA
....
from what I understand, if I had realy good reception here I could get a wireless Modem/data connection for the computer here that would be worth the high price they charge...but all the KIDS at the cell phone shops have no idea of what I am talking about... takes 30 min to explain and then I get "Oh well I dunno man !"
I think 99% of them are scared to commit themselves because reception is so spotty in the hills here... but with a antenna high on a tower ( I just happen to have one) I could get realy good reception here I am sure.
...
I get 1 bar of reception here in the house and the house is metal covered...so its a "Faraday cage" LOL
....
Bob......

[Tink]

Bob,
It is 50 ohm and you'll need an 'N' type female bulkhead or chassie mount connector at the antenna (that what corroded at my site because I didn't weatherproof it) and the 'N' male to connect into that then the pigtail to your phone, providing your phone has a jack for an external antenna.  In between the 'N' female connector I suggest using the Wilson 20' cable that terminates into the proper connector to accept the pigtail to your phone. All this will work if your cell phone network is on in the 806-900 MHz range (Verison for one).

The Air Card that Verison has lets yo connect a computer to any cell tower (Verison). it's $59/Month and has a download limit of 5gig. It worked lousy here mainly because I was only getting 1 bar. Verison is coming out with something better but I don't know much about it. Leo Laport 'The Tech Guy' was taking about it a few days ago on his radio show. His pod cast is free.

Have a great day, I'm on my way to work. 
Tink

[Bob]

yah I'm using Verizon simply because it is supposed to cover the best in this area.
i think with that Yaggi up to the roof of the house I should get at least 3 to 4 bars...maybe more if nothing else it will help just the cell phone use in the house!
...
My phone has the standard round pluged hole in the back for an external antenna in other words it doesn't have a external jack so I was going to get another one of the mobil phone cradles for it... I have one and it barely worked but it does to a certain extent... the mobile antenna is the problem, not the cradle I think...
that or I will make a disk of open wire to hook to the antenna so it will radiate inside the house.... never tried that but am fairly certain I can make it work...
might take a diode to ground to make it work not sure...
...
I played with AM radio reception a while when I was just getting into ham radio stuff and discovered I could get fantastic reception inside the trailer house in a fringe area by hooking to the outside antenna and running speaker wire the length of the trailer house inside.... ...it wasn't elegant but it worked great no matter where I was in the house... thats what I want for the cell phone...
if I can get to that point then I may well go wireless data with one of the carriers that have unlimited data...verizon doesn't do that... their largest will cost you over 79 bucks a month and thats just too much for me .... I'm cheep!
LOL !
....
  I took the wife out for a Munchie this morning at about 2:00am and we celibrated out 36th aniversery togather !    after all these years I still wouldn't trade her for nothing !  HAHAHAHHA
... we got to laughing because she works with some Kids that she has been married longer than they have been alive, and that is a good giggle!
...
got your email back Tink... thank you ! very much !
...
Bob.......

[Tink]

Bob,
Congratulation on the anaversery. ( i like posting to you since I feel I don't have to spell everything corectly). I'm still looking for the right box. This may take a few days but I'll get it to you. With this antenna I get 2 bars and that is a good signal. Cell bars are a funny thing. Sounds like you have the correct hole in the back of your cell phone. At Radio Shack you can get the proper pigtail for that particular model phone. It will be interesting to see if you can make it work all through your house like you are talking about. Outside the house how many bars do you get? Did you know Walter Conkrite was a ham? KB2GSD
Tink

[Bob]

hehehe No I didn't know that Walter Cronkite was a ham !
...
up the hill/driveway 200ft I get 2 bars maybe 3 on a good day , just outside the house I'm lucky to get one bar because thats on the oppisite side of the house from the signal source ... havn't tried on the other side <grin>
...
I do know that when we have clouds and rain the signal drops to almost nothing...
and it can be that way till the clouds leave, not alwayse but usually thats the case!
....
 there again I think a antenna on a pole at the peek of the roof will cure that.
...
 Yah I dunno if I can make a "radiator" for the signal or not but I think so...
 a signal comes down the coax from an antenna and if that is terminated in a loop (of wire center of coax to shield of coax) in order for the signal to terminate itself, which it will try to do....it will have to travel down the coax to the loop of wire..... in so doing that wire should radiate.  however it may need a resistor or perhaps a diode or maybe a combonation of both to keep some of the signal there... other wise it all goes to ground and cancels out... and no signal is radiated at all.... 
 so I realy dunno I am therorizeing it at the moment and trying to make sense of what I know about it... HEHEHEHEHEH
 you have any opinions on the ideas guys ?
...
Bob.......

[Tink]

Bob,
When my sister got her new (used) single wide there is a bare wire running 3/4 the way around the house under the eve all nicely insulated from anything. I can't see where it connected to anything though. We can't figure what it is for, maby something like you are thinking about. Have a great day I'm on my way to work.
Tink

[ic-738]

bob,
    lang wire always works great for am, the longer the better, but i think the cell phones are still around 900 megs, which means they tend to bounce off everything, but do not travel far.  I still don't understand why the cubicle quad did not work, other than the signal is so displaced and caotic that the best way to do better would be a amp, preamp?
Mike,
AB2DE.

[Tink]

Mike,
Exactly, I did use one of those 'Boosters' it didn't do too good when I was not even getting a bar outside the house, I was going to the top of the hill to get a connection. But when Verison put up a closer tower and I could get a good connection outside the house but sketchy inside that booster did real well. I gave it to my sister and she is using it to great advantage. They cost $210 but you can get them on ebay cheaper. Radio Shack sells them and also the Wilson counterpart. I don't know which is better. You really have to have a signal outside for them to work inside the house.
Tink

[ic-738]

tink i am not a firm believer in anything radio shack sells these days.  They put ou a few excellent ham rigs in there time , they were basic, but work horses, I still have 1 the htx 212 or 202 i would have to look, but it has outlived all my other ridgs for 2 m 70 cm.  U can not even buy many rresistors there any more.
Mike,
AB2DF.

[Bob]

I agree Mike .. Radio Shack has such a low invintory your lucky to get a battery these days...
... I've got a lot of stuff from Radio Shack mostly junk but some good....it used to be the best place for project parts , now they are more interested in selling cell phones than anything....
the guys up here do not carry any antennas for cell phones , mobile or base...
just the hands free driving stuff for the cell phones and 2 kids that don't know anything but punching a time clock.... its disgusting !...
so I have been going to Bentronics and its only marginally better.
....
yah when the frequancy gets as High as that the best antenna is made as a reflector or parabolic dish.... and I'm thinking a "dish-network" parabolic dish should make a great antenna.
perhaps when I get to play with it I can figure out something ...
...
all this talk about ham stuff has got me thinking about Ham Radio allot lately...hheheheheh I may well have to get my liscnses renewed again!
... I do know my 2mtr rig in the truck would sure be handy incase of an emergancy!
more than any cell phone !
....
No doubt , like ya said an amp is the best way...
....
Bob......

[Tink]

Mike,
Your rite about Radio Shark but up here we have one that is run by an old Ham who really has helped me out in the past many times. But, for the most part Radio Sharks are a joke. By the way I also have the old reliable HTX-202 and an HTX-404. There just is not any activity on 2 meter here and very little on 440. I keep them for when I travel. I have the moble version of the same vintage for 2 meter and it had never failed me over all these years. They used to make a great scanner too.

Bob,
You really should get your ticked again. We could get a net going on 40meter or 80meter or whatever. It would be a hoot.
Tink

[ic-738]

Bob, Tink,
     Bob, I will refresh u on the the wi fi I built that is around a gig in freq.  I was a cantenna and it doubled the signal, then i mounted the cantenna on a direct tv dish, but have not yet tested it, it should really up the gain.  Also go for it bob, if nothing else it is a chalenge.  I have seen times whenham saved my but, where no cell phone would work.  My buddy has a phone patch hooked up to his repeater, which has come in handy.

Tink,
     We had a ham that ran one 25 miles from us that was the same way.  He is gone now they are like vultures when u walk in.  But the worst part is when they ask u what u need, u tell them, thay scratch there head and say no we don't have that because they have no idea what u are talking about.

Mike,
AB2DF.

[Tink]

Guys,
I built one of those Cantannas a few years ago and it works great For WiFi. I sware I can get a signal 1/4 mile away. I don't know how to make one for cell phone use but this link may help.

http://www.wardriving.com/antenna.php

Bob,
I amd still looking for the rite box for that Yagi and will get it to you  ASAP. It has a 13Db gain!

Mike,
The book is in the mail! Some day we should try a contact on 20 meter. I'd like to converse on Skype at the same time if we can anage that. It would be interesting to see if I can hear yo and vice-versa. This wire antenna was used with great success by my Elmer to talk to ships at sea in the fat pacific on 15meter and we was only running 85 watts and in AZ near to where I am now. The bands are so lousy we haven't gotten many contacts on 15meter at all for months. Hopefully these new sun spots will change that
Tink

[Bob]

Tink ...
Perfect!  I'll take down the old TV antenna and install it right there on its pole !
...
I do wish I had a place close to the house that is tree limbs clear but I don't ...I gott'a go 300ft at least away from the house to find clear sky!
...
I am quite interested in WI-FI... problem is I don't know anything about it other than its wireless data transfer....I think!  and that is what I was thinking of doing here was going wireless data, I think Sprint has a $35.oo a month unlimited useage data plan but I'ed have to look again to be sure.
...
I bought 300ft of cat6 cable and the crimping tool and cable tester from Amazon.com last week cost about $71 bucks but the plan is to run Ferals computer at the Motorhome off of this computer's internet connection....
the problem is I have put on 3 connectors and not a single one works yet... and there instructions are worse than lacking.... the cable is 4 groups of 2 wires seperated by a + of plastic in the center of the cable...making up 8 wires
and the crimping tool seams to work ok... but the crimp on connectors are the PITS
I can't get any of them to make connection with even 1 of the internal wires ,yet alone all 8 and in the same order as the other end! its got to be a random arangement... by guess and by golly.... keep cutting off the connectors untill you get one that connects the way you want I guess... I have never seen the likes in my entire life... there is no way to insure proper wire order in the plug in...
have any of you ever messed with a cat5 or cat6 Either net cable before ?
I am in need of help on this one.....
I think I will have to buy different... "Better" plug-ins for the end of the cable!...
(thats the cable that goes to our Lan cards )
any help would be appreaciated !

...
well, its up the mountian for me this morning... hope to bew back before it gets real hot here !
catcha later !
....
Bob........

[Tink]

Bob,
I have done a bit of networking with CAT5 and I think you have to reverse the wires on the other end. Exact same order but in reverse otherwise you are butt backwards. How long are you making the cable? look at a CAT5 cable that is already made and see how they did the little wires in both ends to verify this. You can always test it with an ohm meter. I wasn't sucessful today getting a box for that Yaggi. I'm going to have to fabrcate one. Hopefully I can get it mailed on Monday.

 I'm going to practice welding again. I have a 120amp wire welder that works great but the instructions say it is only good for up to 3/8". Welders I've talked to say it can be used to weld 1/4" stuff but I'm not sure my technique is up to it. I got some 1/4" metal laying around I'll be practicing on. Any pointers? I need to weld my tower together. It consists of a length of 4 1/2" sch.40 and 3 lengths of 4" and a length of  2 1/2" and a length of 2" all Sch 40. It will be 35' long when all done. I plan to slip the 4" inside the 4 1/2" about 18" and drill holes around the 4 1/2" to spot weld it there and around the top of the 4 1/2". Then I have 3" sleeves to go inside the 2 remaining 4" lengths. These sleves are 24" long  so I'll have 12" inside each piece. Then I have a spacer for the 2 1/2" pipe to fit inside the 4" pipe and the 2" pipe fits nicely inside the 2 1/2" pipe. The whole things will weigh about 310 lb when done. All this pipe is galvanized. It was laying around here for years and will save me many hundreds of dollars in the construction of this tower. Any suggestions on technique for a beginner welder would be greatly appriciated from any of you guys.   
Tink
 

[Manta]

Tink,

Build your weld up in layers.  That is the normal way to do it.  Just make sure you have got rid of all the galvanizing from the weld area.

Manta

[Bob]

well Tink... I have been welding sense I was a Kid with Oxy-Accett... that is an art an unlike most other welding, much much slower.
I mainly do Stick Arc welding now, I had a wire welder, a monster Mig that wound up discouraging me from that kind of welding outside.
...
Wire welding is a product of your Amp setting Wire size and Speed of your movement.
 you will find if you go too fast the added metal just sits on the top of the welded metal ...NOT GOOD.
if you go too slow you can melt a Hole in the welded metal , but thats fairly hard to do.
the trick is to stick the metal pices together with the added metal, but do it slow enough so the pieces
melt togather.
with wire welding, your more or less stuck with your feed rate... you need to keep it fast enough so that the wire stays at least 1/4" from the tip of the gun... the slower you move the hotter it gets
and the shorter the wire to the tip...move too slow and the wire will stick in the tip of the gun.
...
in general you can simply seam weld a pipe by  tacking on 4 sides to hold it FERMLY or it will warp as you weld up the seam.... on 4" pipe I'ed tack it 1/2" long on 4 or 5 places around the joint to keep it stright.... and  tack it...not at places 1,2,3,4 but 1,4,3,2 altenateing the  stress in the metal, then weld it UP in the same manor 3"on one side then rotate the pipe 90deg. and weld 3" on the back side, and then repete till completely done.... other wize your pipe will NOT be stright it will wind up being a big "C" shape if you weld it up 1/2" the diamator at a time.
....
your idea of drilling holes to tack the inner metal is a good one, but I'ed drill 1/2" holes and weld around the hole and really give it some holding power... with that method you are fairly assured that your pipe will stay stright.
...
in Stick welding you make sure that both metals being joined are molten and added to the "Puddle" doing this makes sure its a strong joint... although there are rods that you can buy that you do not bother with that and just arc the seam and if everything is set correctly it will weld the 2 pieces togather fine.   but I don't trust that method myself , I want to see the molten metal join togather...its the best way I know of making a good weld.
  So when your trying to wire weld the seam of 2 pieces of metal,  endevor to melt both pieces at the same time and add the wire between them ... and just RED hot is not Molten....and that is the problem with most wire welding, the operator lays down molten wire on top of the metal and there is no real "Penetration" of the weld. ... you can do this fairly easy by Zig-zagging back and forth accross the seam getting both pieces to the molten state...but you need to work at the speed your welder allows
....
You can weld much thicker metal than the instructions say you can tink, by making many passes and adding more metal each pass... 2 pieces of 1" thick steel plate can be welded togather easily with a small welder if you bevel the edges of the metal with a grinder and slowly fill the void with welding Rod/wire
...
on welding Galvinized pipe :  be aware that galvinized pipe puts off a gas that shuts down your lungs
and can Kill you if you keep it up... do NOT breathe the smoke! ...
it is best to grind off the galvinized coating before you weld, but allot of times that is just too big of a task... so just don't breathe the smoke.... if you start getting a headache STOP and get fresh air... ( been there done that many times!)... the galvinized coating makes for a hard weld because it pops and farts and blows metal all over the place.... if you can, grind it off a good 1/2" away from the welding area.
....
the AMPerage setting is very important, as is your wire SIZE.... wire Size determans the AMPS you can use, while the AMPS determan how thick of metal you can weld  or the depth of penetration
...
when I stick weld water pipe I usually use 50 to 60 amps...some times as much as 75amps depending on the shape of the metal being welded thicker metal needs more amps... on the 4" stuff I'ed start off on 75amps and see how that works... if its too cold turn it up to 85 or 100amps... too cold is easy to determan, both sides will be hard to get molten and your wire will get too long and start pushing the gun away.
.....
so in general all you have to do is Juggle 3 things at once <grin> but mainly get both pieces of metal molten and add wire to it which makes a bigger molten puddle so you pull that puddle the length of the seam...
...
once you get the welder set up for a pictular weld ,it goes fairly fast, and you will find that you can vari the weld by the speed of your welding ,rather than change the welder settings some times.
....
for the bigger pipe you'll have to use more amps than the smaller pipe (the 2" stuff)
...
if your weld is setting up on top of the metal and not IN the metal (you can tell by looking) you need more amperage.  biggest mistake people make with wire welders is they weld it with not enough amperage
and go too fast.
....
TINK...DO NOT WELD IN THE RAIN ! ...
 you can do many things and get away with it but that one is a NO-NO !
I was welding some Gyro part togather in the misting rain and was not having any problem , I was moving the part with one hand and had the stinger in the other and it bit me... and buddy you don't want to be bit by that welder.... my chest hurt for 3 days.... if I would have made GOOD contact , I wouldn't be typing this tonight ! they would have burried my butt!
...
thats about the best I can do for a general how to for welding... its lacking in many areas but if ya need more specific info. , just say so...

Granted, this is probably not what the "PROPER" Professional would tell you how to weld something, but for general purpose Ranch work it works ! HAHAHAHAHA

...
Bob.....

[Bob]

Tink if your practicing, lay 2 pieces of 1/4" one on top the other and off set them  so you can weld the top one to the bottom one on the flat.... that is the kind of welding you will be doing with the pipe
but with thinner metal.
when your done with a 2" weld  put it in the vise and take a big pipe wrench and try to rip the 2 pieces appart.... its the only way to see how well the weld penetrated. if all you can do is bend the metal you did it right!   HAHAHAHA
...
once you get that weld down pat... you'll have most welds in the bag... both pieces need to melt as your doing the welding... that is a prerequisite for welding steel together.
...
Bob....

[Tink]

Bob, Manta,
This all sounds like good advice. Now I'll have to go out there and try to juggle all this together and wee what happens.
thanks!
Tink

ps. this welder only has 'low and high' for settings and the wire keeps going as long as the trigger is pressed.

[Bob]

then you'll want to use the high setting most likely.... if you start melting holes in the pipe then either speed up your movement or turn it down to low!
...my Mig had a feed control as in feet per min. I doubt your's has that so your stuck welding at the rate it comes out.
....
Ahhh good coffee, the first cup is usually the best! HAHAHA!
oh and don't wee on what happens Tink...especially if the welder is still ON !
LOL ! that could HURT !
....
 I have found that a small Zig-Zag pattern of the electrode over the work's seam, works the best
but in allot of cases its not necessary. it really depends on the wire your welding with and the amps being used to heat the metal.... with those 2 criteria you set YOUR speed of movement....
in other words ... if the completed weld looks like a catapiller on top the metal its too cold so slow down your movement speed.... if its leaving a depression is the wake of the weld then its too hot
you want a slight bump where you have welded and added more metal... and your movement is what changes the height of the weld.
Stay Cool Down there today Tink !
...
Bob....

[ic-738]

Bob,
     That is still how I test my weld, lol.  The other guy at work advetises as  a certified welder, he told a guy at work he has to quit garenteeing his work because they were coming back to fix the weld that broke, lol.

[Bob]

I have seen certified welders that couldn't do a vertical weld ! and others that could weld better than I could ever hope to ! 
but I cheet when I do vertical welds I start from the bottom and go up... and let the metal drip all over my weld so you can't tell what its like anyway ! LOL !
...
I borrowed a needle gun to remove the slag on a trailer I welded up from scrap steel I got from Hoyte water heater co. in reno nv.  and I thought that thing was so neet I thought I'ed go buy one.... thats as close to getting one that I have ever got... at $129 for the cheepie and they went up from there I decided that my slag hammer was better than I thought ! HAHAHHAHAHA but for the guy that does a bunch of welding one of those to clean the welds up is a must !
....
I'ed rather Stick weld now than any other kind of welding... I am just so used to it that I do it without much thinking hehehehhehe
...I have been saving my Oxy/Accett. gas for cutting only... and I am getting fairly low on it even with using it so sparingly !...
....
   what is really a hard thing to do is weld really thin metal...thick metal is a snap...no problem at all but when you get 1/16" or less man, that is hard to weld with a stick welder ! thats usually the best thing to gas weld when its that thin !
but I have worked up to the point I can even weld that stuff purdy good things like exhost pipe and tubeing and those Pulsejets are tricky to weld, but if you turn the welder down and use 1/16" or smaller welding rod you can usually do it without blowing too many holes in your project !
...
 HAHAHA ONE thing I had to learn to do and do realy good was patch Holes that I blew into my weld !
and again...that usually takes smaller welding rod and low amps.
...
one thing I am not very good at , because I havn't been able to practice it much is welding Alumimum with a stick welder.... it can be done and is much simplier if you pre heat the alumimum with a torch first.... but it can be done in short bursts... because I welded the heads on a Subaru EA81 engine that got to hot and cracked the heads by the spark plug holes... the engine runs but I discovered that the berrings were shot too... ooooh well ...new berrings cost more than the car is worth!
Go Figure!
....
   
  I need to make up a ripper for the tractor... something to break up the hard soil so the bucket can dig in it.... I figured I'ed make it up out of 1/2" plate for the tines and make them about 8" long
...4 or 5 of them would do the trick and attach them to the back side of the bucket so I can rotate the bucket and have the tines faceing down.... 
ofcorse if I had a bunch of railroad spikes I could just weld them to the back side of the bucket and be done with it ! LOL
...
Bob....
 

[Cowboy]

This should help you Bob:



Make sure you push the wires all the way into the connector.  It's also pretty easy to cross the wires when you put them in the connector, so make sure they're right before you crimp it.  Do your best to get them straight before insertion too.  The method I have found to work best is to get the colors in order, and pinch them hard with one hand, and pinch the main insulation hard with the other.  Then wiggle your hands back and forth a few times in opposing directions.  Works like a charm for me, but I know some folks that just strip the main insulation and go for it.

[Bob]

well I didn't use that wiring order.... but the wire checker said it was perfect so thats good enough fer me!
...
my connector crimpers have a stripping tool on it which I had to discover how not to use it first off
because it cut half the small wires as well...  but it gave the proper distance from the end so I just scored the outer caseing and then bent it to get it free.
... both ends of the cable are the same in this case so I just picked an order that seamed right to me
and did as you said ... squeeze them and twist a bit to get them to stay put...
 I also trimmed off the ends to make them all the same length and then incerted them into the plug and with my glasses ON checked very carefully for swapped wires... found some too ! so you have to be very carefull and realy sure before ya do the final crimping...
the hardest part was getting the wires all the way in there to the end as they didn't want to go in that far...even without my trimming of the wires to make them flush.... but with a bit of elbow greese they eventually did reach the end and  got a good connection.
.....
at first I thought there was no way to make the wires go into any specific order... but I did learn it can be done....
...thanks for the help !
...
Bob.......

[Cowboy]

Well, pairs 1 and 3 do matter on connection.  It really doesn't matter what color pairs you use, but the location matters.  You could trade green for orange for all I care, but if you don't follow the twisted pair example, signal quality will be severely degraded.  And to link to the internet, it needs to be the same on both ends.

[Bob]

Hummm I wonder if my handy dandy checker that came with the cat-6 cable checks for that pare 3 being split around  the other one.... thats weird...  anyway I will try it and see if it works or not
I am trying to connect my Kids computer to this computer through a LAN cable...thats what this is all about....
and the way I wired the plugs was NOT like that so I may well have to re do them....
what I have is 1&2 are pairs, 3&4are pairs, 5&6 are pairs, 7&8 is a pair... I did not devide the one in the center...
but my checker doesn't give me a red light.... like it did when I had a reversed pair...
I wonder if its useable for a lan connection or not now! HAHAHAHHAHA
...
thanks for the Hep Cowboy
...

Bob

[Bob]

Cowboy !  Thank YOU !
after double checking with my tester the order in which the tester flashed was different !
meaning that the pairs were indeed different...
So I snipped off the ends and put on the last 2 connectors as per the pic ya posted ( thanks again)
...but unfortionately I got one connector back asswards.... perfectly I might add...but backwards!
and ofcorse the tester flashed Red on it telling me I goofed up and upon closer inspection I was holding the plug upside down when I inserted the wires, not like the other one ! ...so Now I have to get more plugs HEHEHEHEHHE
....
and Banda Computers said No problem send everything back and we'll fix it... well obviously I can't send it all back as I have snipped off some of the length of the cable , nor do I want to, even just sending back the plugs in their original box is out of the question because the box is no longer in "NEW condition" ....  I may do it anyway... and keep the cable and crimping tool but they say send it all back and I don't wann'a do that.... I might email them again just to see
anyway... I have it on the run this time I am sure.... with the PROPER pairs in the proper order in the plug....
  I got to thinking about what you said and using the cable the way I had it would have resulted in having only 4 wires instead of 8..... if my guess was right only the 2 outside pairs would have worked ...if any of it did.... it probably would have error ed out ! LOL
....
so thank you for straightening me out on that !
...
Bob......

[Tink]

Bob,
Are you connecting 2 computers directly via the CAT-5 or CAT-6 cable. I mean nothing inbetween? In affect a pier to pier network? If so you need a cross-over cable. And I have one in my hand right now, the order of wires are different on both ends. It's like the old mull modem in the days of old. Anyway my eyes aren't good enough to see the different wires without taking apart this cable. The radio shack part number is CB-0260-40. This may help to find the proper order of wires. Also the cable says 'CROSS' on it. If this is not what you are doing then disregard this entire post.
Tink

[Cowboy]

If you are in need of a cross-over cable, swap the orange and green pairs.  You will have one each as in the image below.

[Bob]

Tink...
   YAH ! thats what I'm doing ...going from one computer to the other with nothing inbetween
...exactly like the Null Modem cables of old  ( except with more wires!)...
so Looks like I have to cut off both ends AGAIN... LOL @!
.... to be honnest, I thought we had progressed beyond the old Null-Modem days ! and thought the eithernet cable was the same on both ends and the hard ware took care of it now....
.... go figure!
Anyway....
I have to pick up more cat5-E connectors before I can do it...
...
thanks for your help guys ! needless to say I am a bit "Rusty" on this stuff LOL !
...
Bob......

[Tink]

Cowboy,
Where are you getting these great diagrams?
Tink

[Bob]

Oh Boy.... Change of plans AGAIN....
Feral tells me that we will be going from this computer to a Router now... and from there to her computer etc.etc.....
so that changes the cable type I think.... but to WHAT type ?
on my tester it has 4 cable type diagrams...
1. is an EIA/TIA-568A diagram.
2. is a EIA/TIA-568B (AT&T 258A)
3. is Ethernet 10 Bose-T
4. is a 8-position Token Ring

3&4 only use 4 wires of the 8 from the looks of things
the one that Matches Cowboys Original diagram is the AT&T (2.) where pair 3 is split around pair 1
the first one uses the same wireing as the 2nd but the Pair numbering is diferent...which to me doesn't make any sense if the wireing is the same ...DUH !!!!!!
....
anyway....
we will go from my machine 300ft to a Router... perhaps 250ft or there aboutsI will endevor to make it as short as I can.... because 300ft is the MAX they can be...or so I have read.
....
so with that info ... what cable connection should I use NOW ?
...hehehehe thanks guys your the best !
...
Bob....

[Tink]

Bob,
In that case and I'm assuming you are using a 'router' not a wireless router, Both cables will be standard ethernet 10-base -T. I never ran one over 100 feet myself. Wait to get Cowboy's verification on this since it's been years since I did any networking.
Tink

[Bob]

OK sense we have 10/100 ethernet cards we want 100 base-t connections on the end then....
I have a diagram for 10 base -t but not the 100 base -t  .... the 10 base -t uses only 4 wires
so I am asumeing the 100 base -t will use all 8 wires....
 Cowboy do you have a diagram for 100 base -t plug wiring ? <GRIN>
....
Bob....

[Cowboy]

Wiring for both is the same.  Since you will be plugging into a router, make both ends the same as in my first image. 

Tink, I just Google them.  It's all about word placement.

[Bob]

OH THANK YOU VERY MUCH !
I went to the other property and moved some more junk... but on the way I stopped by best buy and picked up 20 of the cat 5-E connectors and a cat5-E in line connector ...just in case !
... so now I can finally get this connection thing done !
thanks for the help guys... seriously you helped allot !
....
Bob....

[Bob]

Ok both ends done the same as the first pic Cowboy ! only had to use 2 plugs too....I'm getting better at this ! LOL !
... I took the cable up to Feral, its her job to string it down to the house now ! hehehehehe
probably will take a few days before I can test it, but the tester said it was A-OK !
so we shall see...
....
Had a lightning strike close last night and it took out my Modem in the computer.... un known to both of us it took out Ferals Modem as well.... same problem the computer said there is no dial tone when there was on the phone..... put in an old spare and it works fine! so I'll pick up another modem for Feral when I go into town again.
...
thanks for the help !
Bob........

[Feral]

Well, it seems we did something right. The cable works (Yay Dad!) an swapping to our old hub gets the 'internet shared too. So, Yay!

[Bob]

its interesting to note that we tried to get the newer hub to work but it wouldn't......
we had to use an older hub we bought years ago....
I dunno what the difference between them is but evedently the newer one has to be the one to connect to the internet...which seams weird but at least Feral got it working... now she can lag me to perdition and back ! LOL ! 
Bob.....

[Bob]

Tink !

 I got the Cell-phone antenna today that you sent me !   it arrived in good shape and looks like its perfect for the job   !
...
Thank you Very very Much ! Youz is a GOOD MAN !
....
Bob.....

[Tink]

Bob,
Good! It calls for 'N' type connectors because of the frequency. I toyed with the idea of using the PL type connectors but never got around to doing it. I hope you can get it to work.
Tink

[Bob]

OOOK... Jerry at B&A Computers finally got me to see the light...
they didn't send the Wrong connectors at all.... they sent everything just fine.... except the INSTRUCTIONS that explain it all....
... it seams that inside the package of cable ends there is a small package of cable "BLOCKS"
that must be used in order to make the cable ends work !
...I told him that having the INSTRUCTIONS with the product would have saved a bunch of problems ! but I am sure they realise that allready !
....
so... they were NOT at fault.... I just didn't know what to look for is all...
if I would have discovered the cable blocks in the bag I probably could have figured it out myself but they are clear and are hard to see in the bag of clear connectors.... they like dissapear in there !
LOL !
...
so anyway.... 2 weeks later I finally understand and could have used the cable ends they sent with the cable... and I didn't have to go buy different ends at all.
....
Live and learn !
...
Bob........