a little different

[Jake]

i've been running a smacks of sorts in my truck and decided to reconfigure it. i've got 14 switch covers and wired them all direct. to connect them I cut the top left corners off the negatives and the top right corners off the positives. then drilled holes in the top right of the negative plates and top left of the positive ones. After I got em stacked back together I ran a stainless cable through the holes of the positive, looped it around and ran it through again. the loop provides tension on all the plates so the connection is good. got another piece of cable and did the same thing to the neg plates. I attached bolts to the top of the loops with a couple of nuts then ran the bolts through a 4" rubber cap instead of the usual pvc screw on plug. because the rubber cap pulls on and off I don't have to disconnect the outlet hose or wires if I want to take the cap off and refill the tank or inspect the plates. it also doubles as a safety device as it will pop off in the event of a flashback. I'd post some pics but I'm not sure how. not exactly computer savvy

[Bob]

Sounds like a easier way of doing it Jake !  as long as the plates on the inner section keep good contact with that cable it should work great !
...probly a bunch easier than trying to hard wire each plate thats for sure...
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when posting a pic here just poke the "Additional Options" and then find your pic on your computer... its fairly easy to do...but you need to be able to find the picture on your computer through the BROUSE button ... thats the only hard part ! hehehehe
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Bob.......

[Jake]

I see. I'll get some pics posted soon as I download em to the computer.

[Bob]

Jake :
My smack booster has 16 switch plate covers in it, all fairly close spaceing
and its built in the triditional way with all the neutral plates in it...
and I have achieved about 1.5 to 1.75LPM at the most from it... its a good reliable hydroxy cell but I want to try all the plates in a +-+-+-+- configuration with no neutral plates at all
...in other words have the plates wired in parallel all 16 of them and try it that way
I have a feeling it will out produce the original smack booster design hands down...
but we will see, what we shall see !.
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so far I have had fairly bad luck with neutral plate design cells... although its probly due to my plate meterial, I think some of it is just that the plates don't get enough power by induced electrolisis.... I think its far better to hard wire each plate and force it to work rather than make it work by the induced electromagnetic field .... I feel there just has to be fairly large losses that way.   
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what do you think ?
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Bob...

[Painless]

Bob,

I think that the majority of your discontent with neutral plates comes from watching their performance in wet cells.  The current has other paths to follow, which will lead it to go through the electrolyte and around your neutral plates, hence the reduced production.

Russ.

[Bob]

Your probably right there Russ... as that is all I have messed with in neutral plate designs...i.e. Wet cells... and I realize that the Dry cell gets rid of that "current leakage" problem completely...
 and there has no doubt been many very good cells made in the Dry cell category !
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I think of some of the conclusions that I have came up with such as the distance between the positive plate and the negative plate in a neutral plate design and then think of Bob Boyces 101 plate cell that worked so obviously good... yet many of us struggle with a mere 4" of separation ! ...kind'a makes me think I don't have all the information I should have, some times <grin>
... its obvious to me that if you are going to go with Neutral plates then the material used for the plates needs to be high quality "NON Magnetic" stainless steel. in order to attain these good low loss results.  if on the other hand you use 304 stainless steel you may well find problems getting good results out of a neutral plate configuration...
... there is allot about this generator making that I haven't nailed down yet, thats for sure! and I'll be the first to admit it ! ... but I still feel you're better off if you can hard wire power to each plate if you can rather than try and get good results with induced electromagnetic fields to power the plates for you... perhaps its not necessary at all
and with good metal good results can be attained by anyone with a lick of sense !<grin>
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 But I have seen more people struggle with neutral plate designs than the simple parallel hookup. which makes me think,"there must be something to it !"
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don't get me wrong...its a heck of allot easier to just hard wire 2 plates  on the ends than it is to wire every single plate... and that in it self is worth giving the neutral plate design a try !... but we are after "Results" and I have yet to see any evidence that a neutral plate design can out produce a parallel plate cell of the same size...
infact I think it about equil anyway you go about it.... one is just much easier to build than the other!...
so on one hand you have the Parallel hookup that you can use lower quality metal in
and on the other you need better metal, and they both wind up produceing about the same
....I guess it becomes a matter of personal preferance .
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Bob.......