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Author Topic: Using Muric Acid to clean your cell!  (Read 4468 times)
Bob
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« Reply #30 on: November 12, 2008, 10:19:20 am »

Humm...so like the smaller the better then ?
maybe thats why I like wire antenna's so much they just work so good !
...
Bob........
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
hydrotinkerer
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« Reply #31 on: November 12, 2008, 04:17:38 pm »

I can tell you one thing not to do when using muriatic acid on you cells. Don't leave the plastic(nylon) fittings on it thinking it won't hurt for 10min. Melted all of them. When I started flushing it out I couldn't figure out why water wasn't flowing through the cell. Roll Eyes
« Last Edit: November 12, 2008, 04:30:31 pm by hydrotinkerer » Logged
Bob
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« Reply #32 on: November 12, 2008, 07:06:38 pm »

it ate up the nilon fittings Huh???
ACK !
...
Bob........
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
hydrotinkerer
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« Reply #33 on: November 12, 2008, 07:22:17 pm »

Its a cheap enough fix. It didn't bother my pvc housing either.
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candyman55
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« Reply #34 on: November 12, 2008, 08:26:27 pm »

Yep, reply #15 it ate some of my screws also.  Cry Cry Cry
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randy
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« Reply #35 on: November 12, 2008, 09:57:59 pm »

tested it on my insulators, ate em, glad I didn't dump it in my cell.
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Bob
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« Reply #36 on: November 13, 2008, 12:05:34 pm »

Ack ! RANDY !  that means my cells are toasted !... no wonder the output is low again!
...
I just can't win !
....
Bob......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Tink
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« Reply #37 on: November 15, 2008, 09:18:09 am »

Guys,
I have cleaned my smack boosters a few times with Muratic acid and each time they work much better. I soak them in 1/2 muratic acid to 1/2 distilled water for 10 minutes and it cleans them up. I don't take them apart to get the nylon screw rods out or anthing like that. After I soak them I rinse them with distilled water all the time being careful not to touch them with my bare hands. This last time I did this treatment a few days ago is when my cell's efficency droped  and I could only get 5 amps out of it even after I dumped over 5 tespoons of KOH in it. I normally can get 25amps with only 1 and 1/2 tespoons of KOH. What I did wrong I think was I was dumping KOH in while the cell was hot (110 degrees). I could hear it sizzle as it hit the water. I didn't mention this in my previous post. After that is when my production went down and I started getting the brown stuff. I believe if you cut the muratic acid with distilled water by 1/2 it is much safer and does a better job of cleaning. O, I don't know if it is relavent but this last time I was using denatured alcohol by 20% with the HOK and distilled water. Come to thin of it it may have the alcohol that made it sizzle. I also noticed the bottom of my PVY SCH 40 container worped up about a 1/4 inch from the bottom. We live and learn.

Moral of the story is: Don't use muratic acid full strength! And don't dump it in while the cell is even warm (maby only when you have alochol in there, I really don't know).

Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
Bob
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« Reply #38 on: November 15, 2008, 03:39:00 pm »

Tink:
 it sounds like your having the exact same LPM drop off that I have been having !
it works fine for a few days and then slowly drops off to a very dismal output.
I am almost positive its the KOH doing that because it gets too hot...cooks the KOH and then the KOH coats the cell lowering production...
Cleaning with Muratic Acid cleaned Mine up nicely too...but like a dummie I put KOH back in it ! ....
now I have to clean it again and THIS TIME I will not use KOH any more, just Koolaid!
...
Bob...
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Tink
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« Reply #39 on: November 15, 2008, 08:45:19 pm »

Bob,
I really think mine was due to me putting in the KOH while the cell was over 100 degrees or so. Before I don't remember hearing it sizzle. But I think I had only added it when it was cold. Then again it may have had to do with the alcohol in there too. Lately since the colder weather my cell hasn't gone over 165 degrees. And that at 25amps and running for 3 hours. How did your relocating of the HHO input go?
Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
Bob
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« Reply #40 on: November 15, 2008, 09:39:42 pm »

I havn't had time to get to it yet... ( besides I forgot that I was gunn'a do dat !)
....stood by the truck yesterday trying to deside what it was I was going to do too...
dang man must be getting old ! HAHHAHAHA
Oh well there's alwayse tomarrow !
....
I ran the truck down to Shingletown store today and when I got back ( about a 25mile round trip) the Hydroxy gen was still at 16 amps... so it raised only 1 amp !  and I discovered I forgot to tighten the cap on the cell so the trip was just spitting the hydroxy gas out  the entire trip !....
....
but I at least got the manifold made for the little briggs & Stratton engine...
...
other than that I havn't done all that good today !
must be running on a sleep depisit again HAHAHAHAH
...Kind'a Rummy if ya know what I mean....
I'll see if I can remember to relocate that Hose monyanna !hehehehe
...
...as far as the KOH goes it turns dark brown in one trip to the ranch and back for me
...And when its like that it coats the plates and the LPM starts dropping off sharply
....so I'm done with KOH with the Randy Cells anyway ! its Koolaid er nuttin


Bob.......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Tink
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« Reply #41 on: November 15, 2008, 09:52:12 pm »

Bob,
I gotta ask. Are you using the bolt that comes with the blow off cap? Is it stainless?
I just got one of those for my bubbler at Home Depot and won't have to change it out. But if I put one on the smack booster I thought I may have to change it for SS. Your thoughts? By the way I often find myself in a 'daze of amazement' too.
Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
Bob
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« Reply #42 on: November 15, 2008, 10:23:16 pm »

Um well No I haven't (em ducks to avoid Randys Punch!) no I've been going to sense day one but still haven't... the bolt does Rust and probably adds Shit to the electrolyte and that electrolyte will magnify anything in it,  so its best to change the bolt for stainless steel as Randy has been telling me to do for months now !
so I suggest you do it first off Tink to avoid contaminating your Electrolyte. it will help in
making less goo !... the wing nut you can use sense its on the outside...
but the bolt head needs to be coated if nothing else.... !
( fiberglass that puppy in and seal it off ! ) HAHAHHA
...cover it with RTV silicone  maybe ?
J.B.WELD it ! smother it in J.B.Weld !.... ( at the price of J.B.Weld you can buy 6 SS replacement bolts ! HAHAHAHAHAHA)
...would you believe I had to pay $7.99 for a tube of RTV Silicone Huh? the high heat type (RED).... it used to be $5.99 and that was High ! geeeeez !
.....
...
..
And Tink... wire a safty wire onto that pop off cap or tie a cord to it so you don't loose it when it does pop off !
...
( I just wrap a hunk of bailing wire around the wing nut  myself!)
...
Bob........
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Tink
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« Reply #43 on: November 16, 2008, 06:08:27 pm »

OK got the message. I pulled my plugs today and they were all white as a goast after running all week on HHO and no MPG gain. I put new ones in and will run a tank w/o the HHO to see what color they are.
Did you put the Matt Valve near where you plan to relocate the HHO input? I saw your PIC of the Matt Valve in the other topic.
Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
Bob
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« Reply #44 on: November 16, 2008, 07:43:16 pm »

YES... and your probly thinking what I'm thinking...with the bypass valve in there whats the point Huh? ...hehehehe but I'll put it as close to the Air flow sensor inlet as I can...
maybe even stick the hose in side the opening so its as close to the sensor as possable so it can sense the volume better....dunno...havn't done that yet!

...
White plugs arn't very good but in these cars now days its very common to find white plugs
its not a 2 stroke bike and it doesn't need to be brown.... just as long as you can disipate the heat made in the cylinders,  you should be ok...

I'm sure you pulled the plugs before , what did they look like before the hydroxy gas ?
...
Bob.......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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