waste?

[Bob]

Jake:
in my calculations I only use one side of the plates... and it sounds like your on the right track.
 However a constant draw of 150 amps may well fry a 200amp altenator I dunno... it should be able to handle it but the question is how long will it last... if it lasts only a month its not worth it... perhaps cutting back to a good solid 100 amps even would be better.
...
YES the price of Stainless steel is very expensive however I found at Onlinemetal.com a reasonable price for 304stainless with 2B finish for about $9.00 for 12"x12" in 20 guage
....
I think your better off with the wall switch plates myself, but get them as the wall switch plate covers, not the one with the slot in the center ! ( yes they do make them )
...
Now that you have a Reasonable Number given the amps you plan to use you need to think on how you will connect them to the power.....
I sujest having 2 stainless steel rods going through the holes in the plates and makeing use of them as the electrical connectors... this gets a bit tricky however...because the electrical connection is not asured just because its through the hole... the metal has to touch  to make the connection... so ss shimstock can be used as an interfearance fit
a 3/4"x3/4" square of SS shimstock with a 7/64" hole drilled in the center will screw down on the thredded 1/4" Rod and act as a nut to make contact to the plate on that side... the other side would need to be insulated from the rod, and you can make all your plates with one side only connecting at any one time and have every plate hard wired to electrical power.
or you can try the Neutral plate method , but I sujest against it... if you do it should look somewhat like LTCFishers cell... and his 30 plate design
...what ever you do, don't give up on it if it don't work the first time through !
hehehehehe
 in the Randy cell I used Nilon 2 pocket folder meterial as insulators and it should work great for your plans as well...
consistancy is the key to a good working cell make sure the plates are Parallel to one another... that is very important to prevent "electron pooling"... or at least is supposed to be... its more or less theory ! HAHAHAHA
...
Bob......

[Jake]

yeah I meant to say cover plates, not switch plates

your right about the alternator, I don't wanna fry it. Is the amp rating on em peak or continuos?
I was planning on hard wiring the plates. my booster now has floaters and production isn't that great. and I think that'll bring the amps up easier with less electrolyte.

[Bob]

Jake:
 I realy am not sure , I think most altenators can reach their amp raiting at Peek output
only ... so drawing 150 amps from a 200amp altenator is probly as high as you'ed want to go
don't forget that the vehicle is useing some amps as well so add that much to your amount you are drawing ( if that altenator is running the vehicle as well)
 something like this ... 40amps for the truck 110 for the cell=150amp load on the altenator
...
Bob...

[Jake]

well I got 2 old alternators now I just gotta see if either one works. my other problem is I broke a chunk off the injector when I over tightened a fuel line so I had to jb weld it back together.  thinkin bout findin an old truck with a carb on it just to simplify everything but I don't wanna give up on the ol' chevy :-)

[Bob]

Jake:
Most standard altenators are about 65 to 70 amps max... I have 3 or 4 of them laying around as well, but I think you can buy replacement parts for an old altenator and up grade it to a higher amp altenator....  at a site Randy sent me to they sold kits for that... but I can't remember where it was ...sorry !
....
Bob.......

[Jake]

I'm stuck right now. I can't get the injector to stop leaking since I broke it. the jb weld didn't hold as good as i hoped. gotta bite the bullet and buy a new one I guess. or use it as an excuse to find an older truck with a carb 

[Bob]

Jake:
the secret to repairing anything with a glue or a reson is to make it super clean and no oil at all .... gasoline has oil in it, not much but enough to make your JB weld loose adheasion
grab a can of quick starting fluid and drench the part real well and let it dry and then try glueing it again.... and then wait at LEAST 12 hours for the JB weld to harden up
...that or use super-glue ... thats what I repaired a hose barb with on the toyota cilica with a while back (plastic) and its still holding on just fine... the new hose barb /servo cost over $75 bucks ! and the crazy glue just $2.98.... and it works !
if the plastic on your injector is the problem you should be able to fix it with super glue
if its the rubber seals at the injector /head they should be replaced or make some new ones with heatable rubber or seal it with RTV Silicone and let dry a full day.
....more than likely its a cracked seal on the fuel bar and you can make a new gasket , if your very carefull and use "copper coat gasket sealant" to help seal up the connections on the fuel bar but remove the bar and drain the fuel from it , dry it out and then sprey the seal areas with starting fluid to clean them real well so you get a non oily seal .
...
some fuel bars have copper "O"rings that make the seal and once you remove them they don't seal very well and you should replace the copper "O" rings, My toyota's have short hoses going to the injectors from the fuel bar if the hose barb snaps off the injector, just clean real good as discribed  and let dry and then crazy glue it ( run a bead all the way around the break on 1 side and then the other side real fast and stick them togather and if you can hold them togather with a rubber band then do so, if not tape it by streaching black electrical tape over it to press it togather....
let it dry for at least a day then run a bead of crazy glue around the outside of the break as a final dressing... let dry and then give it a try....
a new injector will set you back at least $100 bucks, so try that first
...
hard to say what your fighting as far as the repair goes but I think you'll be better off with crazy glue than JB weld for that ! ... kind of depends on what your glueing !
....
hope that helps !
...
Bob.........

[scratch1676]

you cant get one from a junk yard for cheap?

[Jake]

not much for junk yards around here but I'm still lookin. the part that broke was the metal body of the injector where the threads are for the fuel line. instead of just stripping the threads a whole chunk came off. the metal can't be welded though cause its some kind of pewter or somethin. cleaned it and drilled tiny holes for the jb weld to grab onto but i guess it wasn't enough. The big city ain't too far away so I'll probably find a junk yard up there with one. someone told me injectors from a chevy v6 are smaller but will bolt up on the v8 so if I find some and it works that might be the solution to the air fuel ratio. I'm fortunate enough to have a company truck to drive now and then so that takes the urgency out of it but it still needs fixed asap