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Author Topic: Various Electronic's  (Read 4465 times)
Bob
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« Reply #30 on: November 22, 2008, 06:17:16 pm »

Humm ! thats interesting Randy !  My brass Hose barbs have faired well so far...
it might be the Extra oxygen in the bubbler alowing them to deterierate faster...
I bought a few nilon hose barbs from Lowes last time I was in there and they are working fine as well.... might need them in the bubbler, I be thinkin' eh ?
...
Bob.....

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
randy
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« Reply #31 on: November 22, 2008, 08:21:53 pm »

I got rid of all the brass in mine, including the draincock, drilled out the threaded holes to fit pipe and glued in with krazy glue. hahahahaha no leaks YET.
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scratch1676
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« Reply #32 on: November 22, 2008, 11:46:21 pm »

I am going to try and video my output tomorrow (Sunday) and post it for you guys to see.  I dont have any pwm hooked up and I dont have the electrolyte heavy with koh but I do have one cell running on each alternator now and my initial startup with thirty degree water was 591 ml @ 6 seconds dont know the amps cheapo harbor freight meters are still hooked up not my digital ones I showed in the picks, but cheapo amp meters showed 40 amps on one and 35 on the other but I dont trust them.  I used a mountain dew bottle that was laying next to the cell thats why the weird ml number.  This is not a great output for these cells they do much better but it was a very cold startup measurement and the dual alternators didnt really pull the truck down very much.
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always buy a good bed and a good pair of shoes because you will always be in one of them.
Bob
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« Reply #33 on: November 23, 2008, 01:23:53 am »

Man that is healthy Output Scratch !  I wish My cells would do that ! HAHAHAHA
but it should be with 40 amps on one and 35 on the other ...thats 75amps !
and your just touching the BOTTOM of the Output curve ! that thing will quadroople the output
when you give it 180amps and warm temp !
...
I don't think you'll have any truble at all running that truck on that output realy !
...
for warm startups in the morning you could have a 120vac heat tape around the water tank
and just unplug it before ya leave !  won't keep it too warm but better than the below freezing temp !
...
Bob.......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
scratch1676
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« Reply #34 on: November 24, 2008, 01:50:15 pm »

ok, I just uploaded a output video of my Hydroxy generators.  I told everyone that I would, so check it out on youtube.com  just go to youtube and search for scratch1676 and you should see the video.  Feedback is always a plus thanks.
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always buy a good bed and a good pair of shoes because you will always be in one of them.
ROADKING
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« Reply #35 on: December 05, 2008, 12:42:51 pm »

Ok, see if anyone can help me here,  I am trying to figre out if a capacitor will help,  I can not find out anywhere on the internet, but it looks like it would help the battery out if I were to hook one up after reading what I have.  Now I fine out that it takes 1 ferrad per 1000 watts.  I am pulling approx 40 amps on 390 square inches of ss,  So my question is would I be at 600 watts and would a 1 ferad be big enough to hel me?
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Bob
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« Reply #36 on: December 05, 2008, 03:07:16 pm »

ummmm.

help you do what Roadking ?
...
A capasitor stores electricity, but it also discharges as fast as it charges up.
so it ain't going to hold that much for a long time...
the problem is a capasitor will Pass AC as if it wasn't even there and block DC from traverseing any further down the line... so if you put a Whopping hudge Capasitor in line with your cell  no power would ever get to the cell... it'ed just set there !
...if you put it in parallel with the cell to ground it would then charge up and store all it can.... and soon as you turned off the power to the cell the capasitor would slowly discharge feeding the cell...   but why do that ?
...
 I don't see what your trying to accomplish by putting capasitors on the cell
perhaps re phraze the question ?...some times I'm a bit slow ! <GRIN>
...
Bob.......

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
ROADKING
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« Reply #37 on: December 05, 2008, 04:45:13 pm »

The way I understand it is the way you explained it, except I thought that if I put the capacitor in parallel with the cell and to ground I understood that it would not put near the pull on the alternator all at once.  Maybe I am wrong, dont know and that is why I am here, lol  I was looking at a Stan Meyers video and he had four caps appeared to be in series and parallel, then got to looking and this is what these people do who have big stereo amps in their cars so I was just thinking maybe this would work.
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Bob
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« Reply #38 on: December 05, 2008, 05:02:19 pm »

they may well have been useing AC then with the sterio amps I dunno
but I see no benifit in putting a big cap in parallel with the cell...  its like makeing a big hole for water to pore into... for the altenator ... that slowly fills up... Yah it MIGHT take some of the SHOCK out of the system... but I seriously doubt it will help much realy!
...
Bob.......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
hydrotinkerer
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« Reply #39 on: December 05, 2008, 06:55:26 pm »

The way I understand why they put capacitors on car stereo's is to smooth out the current load on the alternator. Like the stereo pulls 5amps(example) and every time the bass hits hard that is an extra current load of 2amps(example). The capacitor will take the current spike and smooth it out to keep from knocking the alternator out.
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Cowboy
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« Reply #40 on: December 07, 2008, 06:11:53 pm »

hydrotinkerer is right.  The cap in a stereo system is for current control.  With a big bass drop going to sub woofers there are severe current draw spikes.  And unless you like your headlights dimming with the music and replacing alts and batteries frequently.  They run about 1 farad and are used as small batteries to supply the needed current for bass hits.  There's no need for one on our systems because we don't get sudden pulls from the generators.  It stays pretty constant throughout operation unless something goes horribly wrong, in which case a cap wouldn't help you at all.
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scratch1676
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« Reply #41 on: December 08, 2008, 11:54:26 pm »

ok I worked on my stuff some more.  I had to redo the box that contains the circuit board because my old amp meters burned up.  I hooked them up to a non-isolated power and they started smoking.  I reordered some more lcd's and they sent me two different ones and they are larger than the old ones so I had to use another project box.  Don't critque my crappy circuit boards :-)  I am no electronic guru, just a copier of others great ideal's with my own twist.  The pwm works very well seperating the mosfets from the circuit board.  I hope to finish ( i know i said it before ) this electronic stuff this week.  Yahoo! I got a root canal this afternoon and I am tripping on pain killers  Tongue
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always buy a good bed and a good pair of shoes because you will always be in one of them.
Bob
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« Reply #42 on: December 09, 2008, 02:30:13 am »

HAHHA what ya mean don't critique your crappy curcuit boards ! they look great to me !
heck you should see some of the gobs of solder I got under a 555 ic timer I was making for my pellet stove ! ....down right scary !...
and the board is a preff board that has thousands of holes in it....  thats my kind of curcuit board...
one I can change when it don't work ! HAHAHAHAHA
... you got nothing to be ashamed of there thats for sure, I think you've done fantastic work on the electronics !
... Keep it up !  you'll be running 100% hydroxy before too much longer at that rate !
...
Bob.........

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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
Tink
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« Reply #43 on: December 09, 2008, 04:36:52 am »

Scratch,
I burned up a PWM also. I've been playing around with the idea of replacing the mosfets, I know one is bad for sure. You've inspired me. But I don't see the mosfets in your pictures, where are they?
Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
scratch1676
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« Reply #44 on: December 09, 2008, 08:34:05 am »

the mosfets are always connected to the heatsink.  I am working on the last grey box in the pictures, which holds the mosfets and the heatsink and fan.  I will take very detailed pics so whoever whats to copy it or change it, maybe give someone a Ideal.
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always buy a good bed and a good pair of shoes because you will always be in one of them.
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