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randy
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« Reply #30 on: November 19, 2008, 05:37:37 pm » |
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Yeah I've noticed a few spots on the rolls, rust, not sure what grade it is but it's supposed to be stainless.
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Bob
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« Reply #31 on: November 19, 2008, 05:41:15 pm » |
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OK... Note to Shimstock buyers buy a good grade of shimstock ! HAHAHA ... if it gets rusty colored flush it and clean it out.... the GLYSERN should stop all rust everywhere in the cell anyway ... its an Oil base and oil will stop the rust right  ?? ... Bob...... |
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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randy
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« Reply #32 on: November 19, 2008, 05:51:39 pm » |
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well I'm seeing a little junk being formed with the glycerin and k-aid, but it's not building up so I think I'll stick with it. the sample at 30 % shows no sign of freezing, that container I bought at Mallwart has bit the dust, couldn't handle the heat I guess, just went down and bought some end caps for my 3" ABS, I'm gonna go the other way this time, I'm going to try 2 MKII washer cells in series with as little fluid as I can get, allowing the amps to rise quickly, I dont think the heat will be a problem with them that way, guess I'll find out.
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hydrotinkerer
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« Reply #33 on: November 19, 2008, 06:48:39 pm » |
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The shim stock I bought from fastenal was 302 grade. A piece has been sitting on the bench at the shop for 3 months now and hasn't rusted yet. The 6x6" cell I have came from that stock and hasn't done anything in the cell....so far.
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Bob
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« Reply #34 on: November 19, 2008, 08:50:38 pm » |
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Mine didn't do nothing till it rained and it got wet... then dried out naturally
... what bothers me is its Magnetic... my magnet that I pick up dropped tools with under the car... picks all the shim stock up real easily... like its tin... not stainless...
does stainless come in grades that is magnetic ? ... I thought stainless ment NO RUST no matter what ya did ! HAHAHAH live and learn I guess !
...
Bob.........
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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Bob
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« Reply #36 on: November 20, 2008, 05:22:07 am » |
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interesting info there Hydrotinkerer !
it seams that all stainless steels are not stainless....
looks like anything of the 304 grade and above is Actually "Stainless" or crosion resistant
to a high degree... the lower numbered stuff looks to be just a good steel ...
non magnetic all of it except the 302 stuff which is slightly magnetic....
the shim stock I have is not slightly magnetic by any strech of the amagnation... its HIGHLY magnetic... which makes me wonder if it is stainless at all !...
... could be the major reason for the rust in the cell... but I won't know till I make darn sure every nut and washer is not normal steel... I'm purty sure I made all 3 cells out of 100% stainless steel... but my memory plays tricks on me at times and I'll have to conferm it to be positive... if it turns out that they are all Stainless steel then it Must be the shimstock thats causeing the rust.
...thats how I look at it anyway ! <GRIN>
....
Bob...
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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hg2
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« Reply #37 on: November 21, 2008, 08:43:22 am » |
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I think a lot of the stainless that comes from china is of low grade.Last summer I bought a new fillet knife that was made in china.My son and I went salt water fishing and was using it to gut fish and cut bait,we forgot to wash off the knife with fresh water,and after a month went out fishing again and the knife had rust all over it.The salt water had taken it's toll on the stainless,the package it came in stated that it was stainless but I'm sure what grade it was.
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LTCFISHER
Jr. Member
Posts: 71
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« Reply #38 on: November 21, 2008, 08:28:11 pm » |
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We allways test our SST. with a magnet, the Navy wants what it pays for to be correct.
Anything under 304 SST. I believe can be magnetized but not to sure on the numbers any more.
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hg2
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« Reply #39 on: November 22, 2008, 04:33:23 am » |
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I've heard that the 304 ss can go either way regarding magnatism,something to do with it being cold worked or not.
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Bob
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« Reply #40 on: November 22, 2008, 05:14:37 am » |
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According to the info at Onlinemetals.com they say 302 is the ONLY one that is slightly magnetic and 304 is not... and 304 is stainless, and resists crosion and all that stuff
unlike 302 so it sounds to me if your buying stainless steel best not to bother with 302
as it sounds like its just a higher grade than common steel is all... sounds like you have to get 304 to even be in the stainless bracket...
...
I remember having to desifer the Alumimum grades because of their verious grades and came to the conclusion that buying 6061T6 was a waste of money.... allot like buying surgical stainless steel... sure it works but there is cheeper stuff that will do what you are after!
...sense the Higher grade of Alum was being used on gyrocopters there was a big argument to useing "the best"...but in this case your life is not on the line because of the metal quality ... so I recomend 304 Stainless steel... only because of what I've read mind you...
<GRIN> I'm not a stainless steel expert...
I believe the Wall switch plate covers at Lowes are 304 Stainless steel and they have shown to be realy hardy and stand up extreamily well... I plan to pull my Smack booster appart as it has been sitting in electrolite for a good 3 months and see what it looks like tomarrow
...
if their in bad shape I'll let ya know !
...
I hope to test the Smack booster on the B&S 5hp tomorrow if I can get to it...
...
Bob......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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Tink
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« Reply #41 on: November 22, 2008, 10:50:24 pm » |
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I always take a magnet with me to ACE or anyplace when getting SS. They often get the different types mixed up in the same bin. I've found that 302 is slightly magnetic too. 304 seams to be the best. I think 316 is better than 304 but costs at least double. 440 and the like is what is used in good Chef knives and it is deffentaly magnetic. It is used because it is more sanitary. ST-18 for bolts is somewhat magnetic too. At ACE the polished SS seams to be the better stuff, not magnetic at all but cost much more too.
for what it's worth,
Tink
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Old Tink proberb: Don't hesitate, just do it!
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Bob
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« Reply #42 on: November 23, 2008, 05:31:27 am » |
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well, I didn't tear the smackbooster down ...I plugged it in instead ! and used it...
probly only putting out 1/4LPM or 1/2LPM at the most but it was enough to go boom in the cylinder of the B&S 5hp...
All I got was a couple of chuggs out of the thing... it would not sustain at all...
and I'm fairly certain its because of the timeing
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...
..
seams to me the Wall switch plates are a better buy than stainless steel from the metal shops on-line... the problem is I need so many of them... I dunno which one to get ...the 6 sheets of 12"x12" or 40 S.S.Wall switch plates... they will cost about $50 bucks which ever one I buy... and thats allot of money for me to spend right now !
...
I'm leaning towards the 6- 12"x12" plates of 304 2b and make a big cell like scratch has but fewer plates ! ( I have less amps available than he has ! )
...
Bob.......
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"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
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hg2
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« Reply #43 on: December 01, 2008, 07:41:03 am » |
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Bob fewer plates are going to raise your amps not lower them.And using 6-12x12 plates your amps are going to be almost 60.I tried skipping a plate less on my cell(which has 7 plates) and the amps went from 40 to over 60.
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Bob
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« Reply #44 on: December 01, 2008, 08:42:26 am » |
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Well hg2 that depends on what ya mean....
keeping the same electrolite, removeing one plate and putting the same electrolite back in ...YES your amp draw will go up...
..that is because of the Amps per square inch thing...
more plate area lowers the Amps per square inch, Less area raises amps per square inch
However if you start off with 4 plates and mix the electrolite to draw 40 amps it will take less electrolite than if you started with 6 plates and mixed to 40 amps... the more surface area the more electrolite in the mix is needed to achieve the same amp draw
...
... I said and I quote myself <GRIN>
...
I'm leaning towards the 6- 12"x12" plates of 304 2b and make a big cell like scratch has but fewer plates ! ( I have less amps available than he has ! )
...
...
meaning in order to get the AMPS per square inch that scratch has I will have to make a smaller cell because my total amprage is not as high as his is...
so when I shoot for .5amps per sqr inch I have to start reduceing plate area if I am going to keep that ratio when I reach the max amps I can put out...
...
he was running 50amps into his cell with I think 14 plates but I'm not positive on that...
to get about 10LPM per cell...
12x12=144"x14=2016sqr inch./50amps=.0248amps per sqr inch ...VERY LOW I might add ( and he knows this already)
so to keep the same minimum ratio and use my max amprage at 30 amps
1200sqr inch / 30amps =.025 amps per sqr inch...
...or just over 8 plates....
....
so if theory holds true that with the same Amps per sqr inch 8plates at 30amps should do the same as his 14 plates at 50amps... because the amps per square inch ratio is the same
...the question is will the volume of OUTPUT be the same or not ... and technically it shouldn't be as only the efficiency is maintained, not the VOLUME.
it should be ....5.714 LPM instead
14plates/10LPM=0.714LPMper plate
0.714x8plates=5.714LPM
..... So cell efficiency is a function of amps per square inch...interesting!
...
thats what I ment...even if its not what I said !
HAHAHAHA
...
Bob.........
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« Last Edit: December 01, 2008, 08:55:16 am by Bob »
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