KF-Puffin1
Jr. Member
Posts: 58
|
 |
« on: November 08, 2008, 09:28:54 am » |
|
So....i was thinking of a cooling system for the cells that are in my dodge grand caravan 3.3 flex fuel.
I was thinking of having my water outlet hoses from my cells run to a external cooler(aftermarket transmission cooler).......but do you think there might be some corrosion or electrolysis deterioration on the cooler from just being in electrified water,or maybe the electrolytes them selves?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
There are those that lead , And those who follow. My wife says i must follow , and hold her purse....."sigh"
|
|
|
candyman55
Full Member
Posts: 117
Custom Cabinet Maker
|
|
« Reply #1 on: November 08, 2008, 11:25:06 am » |
|
it depends on your electrolyte if you use koolaid should be no problem But if you use KOH you will have a big problen in short order but it should make a lot of hydrogen for a while.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Manta
|
|
« Reply #2 on: November 08, 2008, 11:33:37 am » |
|
It all needs to be stainless Maybe even mild steel. But don't go anywhere near alluminium.
Manta
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Good questions have a sting in the tail.
|
|
|
KF-Puffin1
Jr. Member
Posts: 58
|
|
« Reply #3 on: November 08, 2008, 12:54:45 pm » |
|
even a external cooler would need to be stainless?
well that sucks......
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
There are those that lead , And those who follow. My wife says i must follow , and hold her purse....."sigh"
|
|
|
|
hydrotinkerer
|
|
« Reply #4 on: November 08, 2008, 01:05:36 pm » |
|
Just for info, I have been playing with a brass fitting on one of my setups. I had a brass fitting on my gen really close to the electrolysis reaction and it corroded in short order(days). I took another brass fitting and moved it to the reservoir and while it did turn dark it didnt corrode. That has been almost 2 months now. Same fittings, same manufacturer. I think the farther away from the electrolysis reaction you are the more forgiving. I have noticed that copper and aluminum are consumed at a very fast rate(stuck a penny in electrolysis). I assume this to be because of "soft metal properties". Most coolers are made of copper and/or aluminum. You could take a piece of ss tubing and run it in the air stream and it would be a cooler. Some vehicle manufacturers use this technique to cool various fluids.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
candyman55
Full Member
Posts: 117
Custom Cabinet Maker
|
|
« Reply #5 on: November 08, 2008, 01:43:32 pm » |
|
I think that the ideal tubing would be flexible ss gasline but I can't find ss fittings. I bought a dozen gaslines just to make an external cooler and they are still in the box cause of the fittings.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Bob
|
|
« Reply #6 on: November 08, 2008, 03:12:02 pm » |
|
Somebody posted a site that was selling Hydroxy cooling radiators they looked to me to be normal automotive radiators, which is fine if their not alumimum....
if you put alumimum in a koh soulution you will be makeing a Cornish generator which desolves the alumimum and releases Hydrogen ( among other things) as a gas...
this proccess only takes a few minutes to desolve a plate of alumimum... so you can amagon what a weak KOH soulution would do to your new alumimum radiator in seconds !!!!!!!
... Copper I'm afrade would last a few days is all... it seams to turn to green powder!
....
I agree with your assessment of stainless steel gaslines as a cooling unit and perhaps wrapping thin alumimum strips around it would help to make cooling fins...to disipate heat even better.... never underestimate the usefullness of cooling fins ! they make all the diference in the world !
for instance on a heat exchanger I made on my O'l dodge truck... just a pipe cover around the exhost pipe... I got 80 degree air from it... after about 5 minutes run time
a few days later I completed a bunch of wrap around alum cooling fins inside the pipe wrapped tightly on to the exhost pipe... and I tested it again within 2 minutes not 5 it was at 200degrees and climbing fast... so I was happy , figured I had solved my heat exchanger problem but it still was not hot enough to keep the fuel vaporized all the time.
once hooked to the carb the hot air was sucked so rapidly into the engine that the temp dropped to 90 some odd degrees when it was above an idle 180 degrees at idle but driveing the temp dropped to below 110degrees and allowed the vaporized gasoline to re-condense...
defeeting my goal! .... havn't got back to that thing sense !
....
So I am also thinking of a Stainless steel cooler/radiator....but don't know where I will find one !
I have all kinds of radiators /and heater cores at the Ranch..... but their Copper !
which might work for Koolaid for a little while.... but I doubt it would last too long!
...
Bob.........
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
|
|
|
|
Cowboy
|
|
« Reply #7 on: November 10, 2008, 12:28:45 pm » |
|
I'm thinking you should get some steel brake line, and bend it into a 'wave' and mount it in front of your radiator. As most of you know, brake fluid is very acetic, so it should hold up to a KOH solution. It might not be a large diameter, but if you get enough of it, it will cool down everything you can push through it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
LTCFISHER
Jr. Member
Posts: 71
|
|
« Reply #8 on: November 10, 2008, 07:52:07 pm » |
|
Heated gas and Cooling it down, look at page 4 on ltcfisher cell.
I posted it there.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Bob
|
|
« Reply #9 on: November 29, 2008, 05:53:50 am » |
|
A simple Cooling container can be made from PVC or ABS plastic containers as long as the tempitures don't get too high. and even then you could use HOT water Line PVC
(yellowish in color) ...
...
but for our temperatures..."under the boiling point" it should be very simple to take a fairly large container, say 1 gallon in capacity and wrap aluminum flashing around it and secure with heavy wire... or a hose clamp, then cut slices in the flashing every inch or so and bend the aluminum to 90 degrees to act as a cooling fin... granted the plastic is not the best heat transfer medium but it should keep the electrolyte a bunch cooler ...
I think a 20" tall 3" OD PVC pipe with a pop off cap on it would make a dandy resivore or even a 4" OD if you have the room. with 6 or 8 bands of 3" flashing ,cut and bent into cooling fins the heat transfer should keep up with what is generated by the cells, if not its a very good start and another one would surely cool it down !
...
ofcorse a Stainless steel container would be Allot better, as it would transfer heat to the cooling fins much faster, but that container may well be imposable to find unless you have an old stainless steel "Thermos bottle" you are willing to sacrifice to the cause !
...
Kind'a like the pic below.
...
Bob.....
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"Mother always told me "Son the Imposable is only a little bit harder"...and You know ... She WAS RIGHT!"
|
|
|
charley
Jr. Member
Posts: 52
|
|
« Reply #10 on: November 29, 2008, 03:00:18 pm » |
|
I tried a aluminum transmission cooler with koh solution before I knew better. It lasted a few days. Copper might not work as bad as you think though. I've had 12ga. copper wires soaking in koh for months without them being ate up. One lead will get a blue cake on it almost immediately when the gen is turned on but doesn't seem to get much worse with time. The other lead will stay pretty clean. I think it's the negative that tarnishes but I can't remember for sure right now. The thing I have been worried about with a copper radiator is the solder getting ate up because of the zinc content.
Charley
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
